Greetings friends and family,
Obi and I said goodbye to Fes this morning. I certainly slept better last night and while my digestive concerns are still present overall it was a much calmer emotional day;)
I received much feedback from my last entry from fellow traveler’s who experienced similar struggles in Morocco but find that they become minor blips in the journey.
We had a projected three and a half hour drive to Chefchaouen today, which as I miss spoke in my last email I sent you is the, “Amsterdam of Morocco,” ( not of Europe!). Our Google map was for the most part very accurate guiding us brave globetrotters through the mountains except for the very last part of the drive… I’ll get there.
In total our drive ultimately took us just over five hours and we stopped four (nearly five) times. First to get gas, and fill our tires up (again), second so that I could relieve myself behind a thorny tree, third by a group of wildly bold children selling prickly pear on the side of the road, fourth by the police for speeding(!) and fifth to purchase some much needed water. You may be wondering about that fourth stop by the police… Yup, we got a speeding ticket. A speeding trap in it’s finest form. Here’s the scene: Two officers were at the top of a big hill, so just after you cruise out from an 80km zone, gliding downhill while naturally picking up speed (because of gravity) they have got a speed gun aimed directly at you and clock your speed before you enter the 60km zone which is at the top of the hill. So just as Obi notices the 60km sign and starts to slow down, they pull us over. One officer asks for our car registration, then Obi’s drivers license and his passport. The other officer shows us the speed gun to prove what we did. He clocked us at 71kmph in a 60 zone. Obi was truly polite and calm. Inside I was worried that they were holding his passport and licence. Obi said it’s confusing and explained that we were going downhill. The officer said, “It’s not America. It’s Morocco, it’s confusing. 60, 80, 60, 80. It’s confusing.” Obi asked how much it would be, “300MAD replied the officer”. He asked Obi to come with him to his vehicle. I waited by the car watching. It took a few moments and Obi returned with the three documents and 100MAD. Obi explained to me what transpired at the car, first some small talk about his name, and if he was an American. Obi replied, “Nigeria,” and the officer gave a pleased remark. Then in a friendly way gave Obi some money back asking if he was my husband. Obi said he didn’t record anything down, just seemed to take the money and send us on our way. Believe me when I say we were watching those speed indicator signs like a river duck searching for fly larva who’ve hooked themselves to the rocks under the water. There were some stretches of road in which between a span of 20 km the signs would change from 60, to 80 and back again. Oy vey! We did see more officers with speed guns but luckily did not get pulled over again!
Back to the children who nearly stopped us, they saw our car chugging slowly along and immediately ran to the middle of the road. The girl stood in the road with her arms out wide and the two boys ran to Obi’s window. We slowed down to a very very slow crawl. They all yelled loudly, “Stop, stop” and were aggressively banging on the window. We were trying to communicate that we didn’t want to buy anything and drove incredibly carefully past them. They didn’t give up easily though.
Fortunately for us, this was the last of the difficult drives (fingers crossed). When we leave here on Friday we’ll be driving to the big city of Tangier and expect the roads to be fully paved and wide. Our drive today was long because while these roads were paved there is excessive erosion on each side of the pavement so all that remains is just enough asphalt for one car to wobble through the middle. When another vehicle approaches we drop into the rocky gravel along the shoulder. The road is also full of potholes. Some so large we’d cringe upon hitting them. Given our apprehension towards the car with it’s tire issue and the quality of the roads… Being many miles from anything at all during large stretches of our journey left us on the edge of our seats. We had a few worst case scenarios planned out just in case the worst did happen.
I don’t want to leave you with the impression that the drive was solely about the road quality (as compared to American standards) because this drive was so much more than that. The country side was changing again as we drove deeper into the mountains. Craggly rocky ridges with sheep herders along the treaded for paths by livestock dotted the valleys mountain faces. Farm fields of hay turned into lush green orange groves using water from the fresh water river. We saw people washing and swimming in the cool water colored a faint turquoise. There were many small towns we passed with markets, selling oranges, watermelons, plums, grapes, potatoes, spices, onions, garlic, leafy greens and so so so much more laid on the floor on top tarps. The homes were bound by rope and tin, sheets of corrugated metal, old wood and some built with bricks and cement. The farmers sitting sideways on the donkeys each caring two bulbous sacks on either side full of groceries to bring home, or something to sell in the market. The riders allow their front leg to bop up and down on the donkey which seems to be the way they communicate in terms of speed and direction. They also make commands with their voice. They sit so comfortable. The donkeys often look tired and worn. Swollen bellies, skinny legs and knobby knees with speckled fur. Children walking along the road playing or helping each other carry a heavy load. There were some women outside of the house working in the field, adorned in large wide brimmed straw hats with a distinct cone shape often with colorful pompom like decorations. There truly was a lot to see and take in.
Alas, we bumped right along until reaching the city in blue. Chefchaouen. Our first sighting was at the top of a ridge, with a view many people stopped to take a picture from. Before we got out, a group of children ran over to our window holding a camera. I suppose they were hoping to take our picture for us.
The city is known for its white and blue homes. I’ll take some pictures tomorrow, but you can see the view from our hotel in the photo below. There are multiple theories as to why everything is painted blue. They range from blue keeps the mosquitos away, or to prevent termites from eating their homes copper sulphate was added to the paint which caused the blue color, or that Jewish people introduced the color blue in the 1930’s after taking refuge from Hitler, or that blue symbolizes the heaven and sky which reminds people to live a spiritual life. I will ask a local tomorrow and see when their response is. Stay tuned.
Now, as I mentioned earlier the map was mostly accurate. However, the final part of our journey was to the hotel which as it turns out is within a pedestrian only area. We followed some hairpin turns going to some very challenging “off roading,” only to find that the real road stops even though the Google road continued. Lol. So we turn around and find another road that also stops at one of the cities babs or gates. We load up our luggage with Obi using his location and we trek up and down, around and up an down again the narrow but strikingly beautiful blue streets. It was hot, very hot. Sweat beads accumulating fast but our minds focused. At one point we found ourselves behind a house with the cats at a total dead end. A man comes out and said he heard is through his window and asks if we needed help. Yes please;) He told us we were nearly there, just a bit further down and to the right. Teamwork. Bingo… He was correct and we made it! Our hotel is truly lovely and peaceful. The color blue swallows you right up.
We did get help from a hotel employee to take us back to the car and drive to a more local parking lot. I loved going back to the car because I championed up the steep steps without a moments hesitation. You know I do love going uphill! When we finally made it back down to the parking lot we watched as the parking attendant maneuvered our car into the tinniest of spots for it’s two night stay. He had some very strong spatial awareness.
At this point it’s nearly 6pm, our stomachs are growling and we need food… Hopefully not vegetables and couscous, or rice with lamb sauce. I had read about a restaurant with great food called Bab Ssour. It was nearby and off we went. I have to say, I thought it was a fantastic meal. We had oven fired bread, with olives, a spicy dipping sauce, a bowl of incredible lentils, spaghetti for Obi, and a plate with warm salads which included (spinach, lentils, squash, tomato and peppers, eggplant). Each flavored differently and so flavorful. Oh, we also ordered fresh juice. I had a glass if blackberry juice, imagine a blackberry smoothie (a first for me) and Obi fresh pineapple. They were both fantastic though I thought my blackberry juice was perfectly sweetened. They also don’t give you a check, instead to go to the counter and tell them what you ordered to pay. The whole meal cost us $12. The restaurant was small in size but shines a rainbow with it’s wonderful food, friendly staff and finding places built on honesty is truly rare.
We ended our night with some fresh cookies I bought at a nearby bakery while looking at the sun’s setting shadow cast over the city. We might’ve taken a selfie also down below.
Tomorrow we’ll explore this new place a bit more and get lost in the adventure.
With care, Franziska
PS. With help from if the front desk, I called three numbers for the car rental, no luck. I’ll try again when the sun in shining.
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