There was no Wifi at the Grand Canyon…so the first two entries were written while traveling and posted two days later.
The Franimal and Obi ventured out early this morning for a full day of hiking and vista viewpoints. We arrived back to the cabin with sunscreen dripping down from the back of my knees, ankles shaded black from the dirt and so many scratches on my legs. Our day started with a drive out to Point Imperial where we met up with the start of a trail called the Ken Patrick. We started hiking after eating half of the breakfast burrito we bought from the local ‘deli’ – while they were warm, unfortunately a bit dry for our liking. We ate a few bites to put something in our stomach and off we went. We were complexly alone for the entire trail – which hugged the rim of the canyon. The trail was exactly what I was hoping for an arch along the edge with a view of the canyon the whole time. We were walking through waist high bushes at certain points that were thorny – Obi is more strategic as he walks, actually making a point to avoid the extended branches. I on the other hand plow forward without a care as to what’s in my way. The thorns had a field day with my legs – leaving me with countless red scratches hash-tagging me from top to bottom. All worth the views and the journey – we trekked along in the early morning cool air despite the sun over-head. The temperature was perfect for a hike. We rationed our water as we went, knowing there were no more water stations for the rest of the day. Our plan was to hike along this trail first, finish breakfast and then head further out along the Walhalla Plateau with the car to additional trails and look out points. Obi and I enjoyed a few prime photo opportunities with our trusty cell phone cameras to capture a few memorable shots. We each posed on this rock outcrop shaping our figures as dark silhouettes with the canyon backdrop, arms akimbo proud and powerful. There were many moments today where I just stopped and looked out at the view to appreciate the simplicity of its presences and beauty. I should add though that we met many folks today that were disappointed with the view given how hazy it was. The rumor is that the canyon is filled with smoke from the fires that had recently come to pass in Arizona. It’s hard to comprehend given how much smoke there was – but it did obstruct the view. I was not disappointed in the slightest because despite this ‘overcast’ effect – the south rim was actually just barely visible in the way distance and we even caught a spot where we saw the river flowing. I also adopted the strategy of looking closely for an extended period of time – this allowed my eyes to adjust and the more I looked, the more I saw. Through the smoky fog I could make out ridges and ripples in the stone. I could see broken boulders hanging on the edge about to tumble to unknown depths. I could see different colored sections of rock signifying the layers of time. I could imagine the fossils gorged in the stone from water creatures and plants. I could hear the heavy buzz of a bird’s flight past our heads and I could see the raven perched on a ridge no human will probably ever explore. The higher elevations of the north side of the canyon has many land masses that look like islands. The higher elevation actually causes greater erosion from the increased snow fall that comes in the winter. This erosion forces cracks into the rock and pushes and prods causing the rock formations to change over time – in a different way that the southern rim. As a result along the northern rim – these islands and tooth like structures are dynamic and inviting. Sometimes we were hiking such a distance that we had the chance to see one island from various perspectives, changing the way it appeared. One of the best moments during our hiking was heading out to Roosevelt Point – I had missed a turn off on the short trail but Obi spotted something. In a flash I jumped forward and noticed a trail leading to a ridge lookout point. In was a short and significant drop down and then immediately up to reach the edge. At the edge the stone was cracked which gave the illusion that with one more step the giant bolder would give out from underneath you. In that moment it’s easy to feel scared – to doubt the sturdiness of the stone and your heart races a little. There are no metal fences to keep you safe – just the stone and the sheer drop into the abyss. But it is these moments I feel my most brave – I venture out to sit down and look around – to feel the size of my smallness in such greatness. It is in these moments I feel truly alive. Then I glance back and see the look on Obi’s face – so eventually, I retreat to safer spaces and settle into the shade for a moment of silence.
Our final destination point for today was a Cliff Spring trial, a short ½ mile walk down to a canyon fresh water spring. I had been looking forward to soaking my hot and dirty feet – and I quickened the pace despite the heat at its hottest for the day. The earth was dry but as we approached the overhanging rock we started to notice fresh fern like plants and green grass spawning upwards from the base of the overhang. While there were no puddles for me to frolic in, bright green moss covered large sections through which water drops gracefully fell to help grow the plants which seemed out of place in the dry desert climate. I placed my head under a steady drip and could feel each drop cool my scalp and neck. The water felt nice as we trekked upwards again back to the car and when the breeze blew past it cooled the water. The heat was heavy though and by the time we reached the car – my hair had dried up.
Our night ended with a lightning storm over the canyon – we had settled into the Adirondack chairs at the lodge overlooking the view. When we heard the rumble of thunder and then the jolt of lightening. Dynamic energy rushed through the crowd of people huddled under the lodge’s narrow lip from the roof. With each strike an applause broke through and some shrills. The wind was strong and blowing sand into our eyes. The temperature dropped significantly and it felt cold, very cold. We hunkered outside for some time and then retreated into the lodge for the heavy rain drops to pass. And just like most summer storms it left as quickly as it came.
Update on the camera battery – I asked about four people today who had Cannon cameras for a battery loan – they were all willing but sadly their batteries were too big. New models maybe? I tried – one woman took my email so that she could email the pictures she took from the day. What a kind gesture.
Well tomorrow I will be waking up just before 5 am to catch the sunrise over the canyon. I can’t wait. Obi and I are driving to Zion National Park tomorrow – the heat will be extreme – bring it on.
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