Quelkhorn Days 6 & 7, Kiel Days 8 & 9, Oslo Day 10

I am writing to you from Oslo, Norway – it’s nearly 9 pm and the sun is shining brightly. I might have just broken the sink in our hotel room, I needed to fill the sink and pushed the drain down – only to learn I am unable to pull it back up – oy. When Obi finishes showering I’ll call the front desk and confess – let’s see what they say. We’ve just had a glorious afternoon walking in the beautiful city of Oslo. We left Hamburg this morning after driving with my dear friend and her two children Sunday afternoon from Kiel to Hamburg. We decided to spend Sunday night in Hamburg at her parent’s house so that Monday’s trip to the airport to catch our morning flight would be easier. Staying in Kiel for a few nights with my friend, like a sister, and her family was splendid. We spent most of our time in their garden that spans nearly half a city block – it’s very long and wide – and they have put in many hours of work to create a space for relaxing, playing, and growing. They have a few plentiful fruit trees and a garden area in which we retrieved all of our evening veggies from, fresh cucumber, zucchini, arugula, onion, carrots and garlic. It’s like magic walking into their garden and harvesting incredible vegetables to enjoy. I was so happy to get to know her children (better) and spend time together going for long walks and talking. One day we also drove out to the beach for a walk in a Beech wood forest at the edge of the sea. I even darlinging jumped into the ocean for a cold and refreshing swim. While spending time on the sand, Obi had the idea to play a beach version of Bocce ball with stones. Very entertaining – complete with the odd types of throws and even a backwards throwing round. We won’t talk about who won – let’s just say I am much better with real bocce balls.

Before arriving in Kiel, Obi and I finished our days in Quelkhorn with my family. On Wednesday I had a chance to visit Bremen with my aunt. It was important for me, to, in some way revisit the stores we had frequented years ago as a child – with the help of my aunt we even found a chocolate shop that sells a most delicious truffles I still remember eating as a child. Bremen is also home to a special frozen cake served only in two flavors, strawberry or pineapple – this was my second time eating this cake and so I tried the pineapple – yum. Since we are on the topic of food, I should add that my uncle made his specialty – cheese fondue on our last night and while I loved every warm and gooey bite – so did Obi. It seemed he went bite for bite with my uncle who eats like a champ. Yes, it seems we are eating our way through Europe:)

During our last final full day in Quelkhorn, I decided to bike about 23 km (one way) to a garden which houses two of my favorite sculptures – in a town called Worpswede. There sits a buddha that laughs and a man pulling his hair in such a rage. I always was always spellbound – even as a child, by the juxtaposition of such joy and anger in these very old stone sculptress. They are below for reference. I rode my uncles new E-bike – the first time I ever sat on one. These bikes are heavy! Upon leaving I was worried about the time, and Obi said, “use the boost.” Despite the wind and long detour I needed to take given a road closure – I did not use the boost. Curious though, I did turn it on to see how it felt and immediately noticed the quick pace and ease – only to have the boost stop. I thought I was using it incorrectly, so I turned it off (as I did not really want to use it anyway) – but learned upon asking my aunt that when you are biking over 25 km per hour – the boost does not activate – these are for safety purposes as these bikes are not permitted to go any faster. Ha, that was a good laugh for me. The pace at which I was riding – was speedier than what the boost could do. So – I guessed the Franimal outboosted the boost?

On Friday after saying farewell to my family and vowing to return soon – we boarded a train to Hamburg and met my godmother and family. It had been many years since we last spent time together, therefore, talking about our lives and catching up felt very special. We ate lunch with her, her daughter and partner – and then walked along the Ulster river in Hamburg. Sailboats, paddle boarders and kayakers decorated the river complete with two sailing schools for children. We lost track of time and took some of the cake she had to go – and made a dash to the nearest train station to meet my friend. The first week of this trip – for me – has been truly about remembering a place in the world where I melt into happiness – and reconnecting with my family and friends who I have missed and longed to see after so many years. I did just that. Our week ahead in Norway, a place I have never visited, already feels different.

After a quick snack in our room this afternoon (and another smooth flight) we ventured into the city for a walk to the sculpture garden I had been informed by a few people to visit. If you ever find yourself in Oslo, I highly recommend a visit to the Vigeland Park, a park which features Gustav Vigeland’s most well known work. He was a Norwegian sculpture and wood carver who died in 1943. His work is featured in the park in bronze, granite and wrought iron. From the entrance we entered you first cross a bridge with bronze figures along each side. Each one featuring a human form in different pose. All of the figures in this park are nudes, and the body shapes and size vary along with the age of the person. His work features many children, couples and elderly people. As you walk along the bridge you are quickly taken hold by figures that seem reflective and lost in thought, while others are chaotic and many are sensual and loving. His figures are interconnected and dramatic at times with women embracing children almost as if their child was afraid, or two men held together by arms, legs and backs in an intimate and private moment. There are many sculptures with men and children in moments of admiration and teaching. Each one, and there are many figures, invite you to write a story. Along the way to the sculpture park it started to rain, we sheltered under some trees and waited for the clouds to pass – eventually gifting us bright sun casting rays of sharp light on the green bronze and stone. Obi and I spent some time walking and gazing. We ventured back towards our hotel for a shoe change (my right foot was hurting) and then made our way to the Oslo Opera House – another must see. This building is a tremendous architectural wonder – and designed so that you can walk up to the roof of the building and overlook the Oslo harbor and distant green islands. The Nordic sun was perfectly aligned with the sharp lines of concrete, metal and stone – which complimented the white and grey buildings surrounding the Opera House. When we reached the roof, overlooking the water we were lucky enough to hear a choir group sing two songs. Their voices were the perfect accompaniment to the surroundings and gave sound to what I was feeling. Sitting on the slanted roof of the Opera House with the sun gave me such a feeling of inner peace.

We ended out day at a vegan restaurant next to our hotel, a delicious blend of fresh veggies and rice. As we were sitting there I heard a familiar voice. I look up and behind Obi, ordering food was Woody Harrelson! Yes, the famous actor and his wife. I of course did not know his name, but I recognized his face and voice – Obi knew his name. It was too funny – I never see famous people (or at least I never recognize them) and there he was, about two feet from me ordering the same meal I had. We both thought that was pretty neat and ended our day with gelato – and yes, they had hazelnut, my favorite.

So, remember when I broke the sink…, I spoke with the front desk and they sent up someone to take a look. No sooner had the person some in the bathroom, was it fixed – it’s a push and release drain! So, when you close the drain, to stop water flowing, in order to release the drain or open it again, you push down and it pops up/out. It took him about 2 seconds to “fix” it – it was never broken or damaged we just did not even think it needed a simple push – as the quick fix. Ah, the European engineering does it again! I wonder if Woody would have figured that out:)

Tomorrow we take a train to Bergen, Norway.