Oslo to Bergen Day 11, Bergen Day 12, Bergen to Balestrand Day 13

This afternoon I received a Whatsapp message from my mom and sister giving me hard time for not writing every day (as I have done on previous trips) – they had me laughing, joking around that I was in a pre-honeymoon. Very funny you two. Last night I would have written but Obi and I went to a spur of the moment concert, we heard Björk perform – live with a local string orchestra! Though, let me start from the beginning. Since leaving Oslo, it’s been raining, raining from morning till night. We learned from a crew member on our boat, that this has been the coldest summer in Norway’s history since that last 50 years. It’s been about 15 degrees colder than what they are used to (for this time of the year), and this happens to coincide with a lot of rain. While the rain is not great for city exploration it does wonders to the hundreds of waterfalls that extend from the fjords. Our journey from Oslo to Bergen took an entire day. The hotel we stayed provided us with a very hearty and delicious breakfast buffet to which we filled our stomachs and marched off to the train station. We boarded the train that should have been direct from Oslo to Bergen, however, there was track maintenance on the final leg from Voss to Bergen, so the many passengers needed to take a bus. The train ride was splendid passing along fjords and crystal blue water pools from gushing falls. It’s the kind of train ride you don’t want to end. The journey lasted about 8.5 hours – about an hour extra due to an accident on the road when we boarded the bus. The road was closed and all we could do was sit and wait. It’s a two lane road – one lane per direction with no where to go. We had a stunning view, podcasts (videos on Youtube for Obi), books to read and chocolate covered cashews so life was good. When we finally made it to Bergen – we trekked through the rain to our hotel which was nearby and settled in after eating at an Indian restaurant that was slightly off the main tourist strip.

During our full day adventure in Bergen, we started the day with a fjord cruise to Mostraumen. This was truly a lifetime travel highlight. We boarded a boat that was very crowded, given the time we arrived about 10 minutes before departure all the seats near the windows were occupied. I quickly did some reconisnacne and noticed we could hunker down outside at the top deck. A few other folks had also noticed this and so we all seemed quite pleased to have found seats under the only covering of the boat – again, it was raining from the moment we woke up – and so some overhead covering was critical. The boat departs Bergen and cruises along for an hour and a half before returning – so a total of three hours on the boat. Leaving Bergen felt just as thrilling as arriving because out on the water you have this splendid view of the land bursting with mountains and the valleys mostly covered with rich green evergreens but many of the valleys near the water’s edge are dotted with homes nestled in. Bergen is a tourist destination with old buildings – and those that are near the water’s edge are currently under construction because they seem to be shifting – askew. The city is working on raising them up and seems to be using traditional methods of construction as we could look inside to see the wooden beams as the floor – very different from the drywall and poured concrete I am used to seeing. I feel like a tourist in the city – but when you are on the water far from the city streets you somehow forget that you are visiting a place that is foreign and I feel immediately at home – the fjords given their natural composition welcome you in – the shapes of land stretch out and circle you leaving pools of deep ocean. Inside these ocean pools you have nearly 360 degree views of the land that dominates. When you look towards the land you see cliffs, covered with trees and dotted with what seem like homes of a brave human or a practical fisherman. It’s utterly delightful – and you want to take hundreds of photographs to capture it all so that you don’t forget. Despite the rain Obi and I stayed outside on the deck the whole trip. There was one point when we turned the bend of a fjord, and headed into what clearly was a rain downpour. The other’s retreated back to shelter but I was so compelled to stay where I was – alone for a few moments – only to quickly feel pools of water in my socks. Yes, I was soaked from my thighs to the tips of my toe nails. Despite how cold I was at the end of the ride, shivering vigorously – it was worth it. The boat ends it’s tour at a huge waterfall and given how the fall, falls – the boat backs up directly to the edge. This was a surprise to us and we were like kids in a candy shop – we were laughing so loud and almost screaming with glee – given how loud the falls were, pummeling down and splashing the boat. The water was white and foamy from how aggressive it fell – and truly had us spellbound. What a magical moment that was. On the return trip to Bergen we talked with our seat neighbors who said they came to Bergen from Poland to see Bjork perform – our ears perked up and we inquired more. She happened to be performing at the stage set up in the castle that was directly next to our hotel. We were thrilled – when we got back to the hotel later that afternoon, Obi bought us tickets – the concert was only for general admissions and standing. How cool – tickets to see Bjork perform – we were pumped. Obi has seen her perform and loves her music – I had never seen her perform so this was exciting for both of us.

I will say though that after exiting the boat – as I mentioned earlier I was soaking wet and finding it hard to get warm. We made our way to a few sports equipment stores and Obi bought me a waterproof pair of sneaker/shoes. After changing from my drenched socks into my backup pair and new shoes I felt alive again! We found our way to a shopping center with a public bathroom, and then ate the cheese sandwiches I made from our hotel breakfast. Warmed and fueled up – we decided to head towards the funicular which is a tram that takes you to the top of a mountain for some sightseeing. I was naturally very interested in hiking up – so Obi faced with a choice to tram it or walk it – hehehe – decided to walk with me, oh yes – he loves it! It was a steep walk – that took about 50 minutes to the top – and got us good and sweaty and a well earned beautiful view of Bergen. We took a different route down through an area fully covered in delicate green moss – soft to the touch – and drenched with water. Thankfully the rain stopped after we got off the boat so our afternoon and evening were drier. Obi noticed that from the moment we woke up to the moment we left for dinner – the lighting in Bergen had not changed. It remained grey and cloudy with the exact same coloring from morning till night – it wasn’t until we were at the concert around 9:45 pm did darkness appear.

Like I said the concert was truly next door – if we had not gone, we would’ve heard her singing from our hotel window. How glad we were to have been there – it was a small venue within the outdoor space of a castle/fort so a sense of intimacy was agreed upon – so when Björk performed Aurora I looked up at the grey cloudy sky, saw tree leaves that moved like cellulite and felt wind grace my naked eyes – tears welled up. I was moved by her voice, the sounds of the instruments – violin, chello, base – and the moment took hold of me.

So you see – this is why I couldn’t write last night – I was wrapped up in the moment. Unfortunately I went to bed crying for a different reason – I got word from my mom that my sister Alexandria who just went back to her community fell again, and this time split her chin open and needed stiches (she has barely recovered from her recent fall after breaking her nose). Her seizure activity has worsened over the years and her brain seems to be less and less responsive to medication. This has us worried – and I am utterly preoccupied by her well being and safety. And yet, somehow despite the difficulty she faces every day – the picture post hospital is one of her smiling and donning a new haircut. She is on my mind a lot right now.

I will end by sharing that today, Obi and I took a four hour ferry from Bergen to Balestrand, a small village further north in Norway. It’s been raining all day again, though that did not stop me from standing outside on the deck again for the whole trip taking in the journey. During this boat ride, I took far fewer photographs (taking the words from Björk who asked that her listeners refrain from pictures and just listen). Instead I looked out at the ocean and fjords and swooned… and was entertained by the tourists who came out every once and a while for a selfie or group photo. I considered doing a photo project of the tourists – selfie sticks, wet fleece jackets, new shoes, fancy cameras, wind swept hair does, snacks from the stand, face masks in their pockets and cigarette breaks – but instead, just watched. Our hotel is a historic sight and connects to Norway’s museum of tourism. The room we are staying in, is on the newly renovated side, but with a view we will never forget. If you could frame the view from our window, it would look like a postcard – it’s utterly perfect. And through the fog of the crestfallen mountains behind the wooden church and small homes is a waterfall – flowing thick with water into the valley. Once again grounding me into this earth.

These photos are courtesy Obi.