Antarctica, Days 4&5

Days 4&5 (written on Day 6)

Hi from the SOUTH! I know my last post was a bit lengthy – there is just so much to say, today’s will include some photos.

It’s been challenging for me to stay current with my writing because to be very honest when I am inside our cabin I am not outside – and all I want to do right now is BE OUTSIDE. You never know when a whale will surface or a sea bird flies by. Antarctica is really a magnificent place and in today’s morning yoga class with glaciers and the crystal clear blue Weddell sea in the window it was hard to concentrate on the yoga. But, the instructor asked us to take a moment and think about what we are grateful for. I immediately thought about Obi – for all the reasons you can imagine 🙂 – but my second thought was simply being alive in this moment and being here on the map. All the ways you can imagine this place to be – are true…

…But I know my last post left you at the end of the first day of the Drake passage. By day two Obi’s seasickness had passed along with nearly every other guest. The sea calmed down and we had the lucky opportunity to sail along the Drake “lake.” Calmer waters. The sky remained grey and wind hurled but it was a welcomed shift for many on onboard. Given we were still sailing towards Antarctica the day would not include any excursions, and instead we took part in a few more talks and mandatory meetings. My highlight meeting was taking part in a talk with a historian who is on board (with her parents) conducting research for her doctoral degree. She is capturing the sounds of Antarctica and will be creating an immersive experience for those unable to travel here. As guests on board we will (optional) take part in helping her gather data or sounds which she may use in her work. She played a few sounds for us, Adelle penguins calling out and the sounds of ice-popping under water. What I appreciated about her work was that it will be used to provide for some people an unimaginable experience. I signed up to join one of her Zodiac rides. It was a waiting list process, so I wasn’t sure if I would get a spot (but I did 🙂 more on that below). We also spent the day getting more familiar with the ship. I had many worries about how I would feel on a boat for an extended period of time, unable to bike through the park or take a long walk. To my surprise I am handling it well. It’s hard to feel restless when you are looking out at the most stunning landscapes you can imagine. I am appreciating every single minute. The second highlight of the final Drake passage day was the spotting of the first ice-berg. The crew put out a survey to see if anyone could guess the day and time the bridge would see the first one. Officially it was spotted on the radar by the bridge around 11:26 am but it was not in view until a little after 12 pm. While Obi and I guessed a bit later in the afternoon, the build up was phenomenal. When the iceberg came into view of the ship, more and more people started to gather on deck. Despite moving quickly it took about an hour for the boat to actually pass it. This iceberg was round on one side and cut off by sharp edges on the other. As we approached we started to get a real sense of the sheer size of the ice and there were many jokes (a few folks actually seemed scared) about Titanic. The coloring of the ice was unlike any blue I have ever seen. At the base near the water the blue radiated out (the light creates this glacial blue coloring) and towards the top it was white. We could eventually see chunks of ice which had calved off on the other side and I noticed small black dots – I yelled out “Penguins!” and everyone started to clap. There were little Adelle penguins who had ventured so far from any nearby land and were resting on the ice. This experience was the perfect first ice-berg experience, the trifecta – ice, blue coloring and penguins! We were all so blown away.

So at the start of day 5, our expedition leader announced on the boat’s PA system that we would have our first Zodiac expedition! Yahoo – this meant we would get to get off the ship onto small rubber boats with a motor and explore the surrounding areas. Obi and I were excited – and I happened to look at the announcement board and noticed I was selected for the first acoustic soundscape Zodiac ride! OMG. This meant Obi and I would NOT be together and he was naturally a bit nervous about the first ride and doing it without his boo at his side. We rushed to the room and geared up. Being our first time on the Zodiac we weren’t exactly sure about the gear yet so we did our best to layer up. Starting with a base layer – wool leggings and silk top (thanks Mom) and next a very thick pair of socks (thanks Debbie) – I actually started to double up on socks as well. Our mid layer would be a pair of pants for me and Ski pants for Obi (his are waterproof). On top a wool shirt each. Then a puff jacket with a hood, neck gaiter, ear buff, and wool hat. Light gloves for me, mittens for Obi. Our outer layer is the think gortex jacket on loan from the company and for me gortex rain pants. We top it off with a life vest. The gar easily weighs about 10-12 lbs. It’s all necessary though and takes about 10 minutes to assemble. I am teaching Obi how to properly layer and how to use the right layers to seal the cracks and seams where cold air can drift in. I gave him a kiss and ran off. I could tell he was nervous…but I knew he would be okay! On my Zodiac I met the other “researcher helpers” and we loaded up with the researcher, Simone. Getting on and off the Zodiac we use the sailors grip (my hand to his forearm and his hand to my forearm) to allow the guides and sailors to help us. The boat bounces up and down in the water so when you walk down the gangway there is movement and you need to be mindful of your balance. We step on the zodiac and off we go. The motor is loud, and the wind is strong but just as we pull away from the boat…humpback whales blow and surface for us. Maybe 50 feet away, they lumber on, with such grace and confidence through the water. WHALES. My absolute favorite marine animal. They were there to welcome us into their home. As researchers we were outfitted with mics and small tripods with a recorder to capture sounds. Honestly between looking around at the water, the whales, the penguin colony on the island behind us, icebergs everywhere, and the sounds – it was a true sensory overload moment. My brian was trying to process so much at once. But it was such a special opportunity to use the sound equipment to listen as the Adelle penguins porpoise through the water or the lapping waves on the rocks, the bird calls and so much melting and shifting ice. We used special mics that went under water and could hear air bubbles popping in the thick ice chunks. At one point a leopard seal brushed past (Obi was on the Zodiac that actually saw a Leopard seal KILL a penguin – can you imagine!). The seal caught the bird and thrashed it from side to side aggressively before swallowing it. Penguins have evolved over time and one of their evolutionary traits is that, out of ALL the birds they have the most dense bones and many of their joints are fused together (hence the awkward walking). So when caught – the seal can’t swallow it whole, they will choke, it needs to literally be broken down in order to be bitten and swallowed. So when the Leopard seal swam past us we needed to quickly pull in the water mics should the seal try to bite it. On the soundscape tour I really listened, a lot. Closing my eyes at times to hear everything that was happening and not just to see everything. It was supremely special.

The afternoon excursion meant Obi and I could be together – all of the guests are randomly assigned to animal groups so that when we transition to the mud room – we don’t all go at once. We are in the Crabeater Seal group. So when we have excursions we listen for when our group is called and hustle down. The groups rotate for each excursion and everyone goes out for the same amount of time. The afternoon excursion did not allow us to land on the island for two reasons. Sea ice was densely packed at the shore and even if we could reach land safely the penguins were clearly everywhere. Unless you have seen a penguin colony of this size you wouldn’t believe how many penguins are in one area. Thousands upon thousands of birds – nestled together on land. Laying down, standing up and walking along a penguin highway (this is a real thing they do, by making paths which they all follow) from one point to another, gathering at the shore line gearing up to jump, collecting oil from their uropygial gland to preen and clean their feathers with or simply just standing around and looking. The smell is intense – and from about 30 minutes out on the boat the wind carried the guano odor far and wide. (When we got back into the room, I could still smell it on my clothes.) Often the penguins have dirty stomachs from laying in the guano – swimming in the water cleans them as well. Seeing the birds all together was so special – and while we drifted along the edge of the island through the sea icebergs (very different than glacial icebergs – sea icebergs are made from ocean water and are generally much smaller and can be clear, glacial icebergs are formed from a combination of ocean water and snow – as a result they are huge, white and can have other forms of coloring like light brown or pink from snow algae or dirt and dust that lands/grows on the ice) – we spotted three different seals. We saw a young male elephant seal, a Weddell seal (named after James Weddell a scientist and explorer but actually he was a sealer – hunting for seals – he is the first person to come within two days of sailing inorder to reach Antarctica mainland . He initially named the Weddell sea after a different explorer but it was changed to his name, and he discovered a new seal and so it was named the Weddell seal) and a Crabeater Seal (our mascot). Each one was asleep on the shore line. When the seals eat a lot of food they are tired, while they can sleep in the water – they prefer to sleep on land or on a floating piece of ice to be protected from Orcas, their predators. It was hard to resist taking what felt like hundreds of photos of these animals – just a few feet away. The birds are majestic in their black and white feathers and the seals blubbery and soft. One of the best parts of the penguin life is the moments before they jump into the water. It’s characteristic that they will start to gather at the shore line, first a few of them, then more and more join. They will begin making a honking sound, over and over – repeated by many birds. Then flapping their wings – but not jumping in. They are scared. No one wants to be the first to jump for fear of a seal so they stand there sometimes for minutes or sometimes for hours until one brave penguin goes for it and everyone else follows. They would rather have their friend die. I started thinking that this is the same behavior as the Wildebeest on their great migration in Africa. Before crossing a large river they (along with other animals like Zebras for example) will stand waiting. The timeline can vary – but again, they are afraid of predators lurking in the water. I found the parallels between these two animals so interesting to think about such different animals on such different continents displaying the same natural tendencies.

The day ended with a very festive New Year’s Eve dinner buffet and a boat party. Obi and I stayed up with some friends we met – and toasted with a glass of champagne at midnight all together. This is a New Year’s Eve that will be impossible to top – with a glacial sunset behind us (yes the sun set around 12:20 pm and rose at 2:35am) – and icebergs practically at our feet. It’s like anything in the world feels possible. Again and again, I am humbled to be here and appreciating every single moment.

I will try to write more tomorrow – and the entry may or may not include a story about a polar plunge – on New Year’s Day!

Happy new year to you all.

Love, Franziska 

ps. I tried a few times to attach a picture – it’s not possible. They won’t load on the WiFi. SORRY. 

pps. While I have not been able to read any responses to my first posts, I can imagine some of you are wondering how Obi is feeling. In terms of Obi’s prostatitis he is doing okay but not great. It’s a bit of a physical and emotional hurdle for him – but he is challenging his best self and trying to find his inner Antarctic explorer.