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Budapest, Hungary 2023 Day 1 & 2

“It’s lights out and away we go!” That’s the start of every Formula 1 (F1) race – and just like the 20 speedy race cars – Obi and I are on another adventure – away we go! We just got back to out hotel after a full day’s adventure in Budapest – with the main event of today being an F1 race. Yes, many of you may be wondering what am I doing at a race track – but alas, love and marriage make you do crazy things:) Obi is a huge Lewis Hamilton fan – a driver for the Mercedes team so we ventured to Hungary to see the race. By default (and some personal vested interest) I am a fan of the other Mercedes rider, George Russell. So, not only did I attend my second F1 race – but this time, I even wore one of Obi’s Mercedes team shirts – I blended right into the crowd. In attendance today were probably about 330,000 people at the Hungaroring race track. Floods of people, may sun-brunt to a crisp after getting to their seats or ground perch early in the day. Beer cans clinking, water bottles empty, dusty blankets coated with specks of grass (mostly dry dirt), the smell of porta-potties mixed with baked dough wafting along at every turn, huge plates of fries and meet kebabs nestled together passing me left and right and nearly every person from babies to adults all sporting their teams colors or jersey. Water stations are strategically placed so if you are lucky enough to pass one – you take the chance to fill up your bottle – drink it down and fill it up again. It’s quite a scene indeed. A sea of colors and pride – lot’s of team pride. We were seated in the silver section, which were pretty decent seats providing us with a clear view of the start/finish line, a DRS (I call it super speed) zone and one hairpin turn. We could also see various other sections like a few other straight aways in the distance. The Hungaroring track is a bit smaller than some other tracks to it’s 70 total laps from start to finish – mixed in with some insanely fast pit stops of a crew of well trained and coordinated people who rush out to change the tires in just over 2 seconds and send the car back on it’s way. Zip – zap – zop – around the cars go. Unfortunately, while Hamilton began the race in first place, he had a terrible start and ended the race 4th – but his teammate, Russell started in the 18th place and finished 6th. The track was hot – given the high temperatures mixed with the energy of the cars so there is a lot of attention given to keeping the cars from overheating and what seems like keeping the rubber tires from melting. Honestly, the whole F1 craze is really not my jam – it’s hard for me to get over how much money is funneled into metal and rubber – when all of these resources and brain power to make faster and more aerodynamic cars could be put towards causes of greater value like education or healthcare – or the climate! Obi knows how I feel – it’s a love/hate relationship for me. On our way out – we stopped to use the bathroom and about 20 feet from us a man fell to the ground and was having a seizure. The people stood around gasping – I jumped into action and held his head off the rocky dirt and tilted it sideways to avoid chocking on his saliva. It was a tonic-clonic seizure – he was drooling and eventually I saw blood from his bitten tongue. After about a minute of me holding his head- two EMTs arrived but they were spectators and through a mix of English and Hungarian we communicated about what was happening, then a spectator who was a doctor came – and finally two race official EMTs joined. At this point, I stepped away and handed the man’s hat and sunglasses to an older woman possibly his mom and girlfriend who came later to the scene. They were crying. It was sad to see how scared they were but, by the time I finished using the bathroom I could see the young man holding his girlfriend’s face and giving her a kiss. It seemed that he would be alright. After this incident – we began our journey home. It was a long journey. We started by heading back to the taxi drop-off point to find the longest mass/line I have ever seen with no clear beginning or end with hundreds of people waiting for a taxi. This was clearly not going to work out – so we decided to walk 25 minutes to the bus station. Along with many other people we arrived to find a huge crowd – and the next bus scheduled to come in 50 minutes. We tried to flag down a taxi but they were doubling the price and only taking cash – so we walked about 45 minutes to a local train which took us into the city – at which point we caught another train to our hotel. Two hours and 20 minutes later we made it to home base – luckily we still had some water (nearly boiling from the sun:) in our bottle so keep us going. We ate at a delicious Lebanese restaurant – Obi’s favorite item was the grilled Haloumi cheese and mine was the roasted red pepper spread and fresh pita. Yum.

Our selfie at the Hungaroring track – can you see the cars queued up at the start line behind us?

Our day however was not ONLY all about mass consumption and fuel burning – we began the day with a visit to the Hungarian National Gallery. a huge and stunning building with tickets to see the retrospective exhibition of Lajos Gulácsy born in Budapest in 1882 he was one of Hungarian’s most famous 20th century artists who never had any formal art training. He allowed himself to occupy much of his life in his imaginary world and depicted what he believed to be true and real through his art. Some of his works were adaptions of other famous works and he was also heavily influenced by Dante and his poetry. Gulácsy was incredibly connected to nature and this was evident in his work – and most of his paintings included flowers, trees, grass, the sky. He seemed to almost always find a way to add nature. The self portrait I enjoyed the most used colors and brush strokes that encouraged his face to blend into the rich autumn colors of his surrounding environment, a strong depiction of his love of being outside and nature. The piece though that struck me the most was called, The Mulatto and the Sculpturesque White Woman. This was the only piece Obi and I saw that depicted a black man – let alone a black man with a white woman, painted in 1910! The description of the painting talked about the stiff sculpturesque pose of the white woman and the “dynamic mulatto.” It was hard to tell from the painting or it’s description if the man and woman’s interaction was forced or consensual? Approved by society or disgraced upon? I wanted to learn more, but the piece left me with feelings and questions.

Lajos Gulácsy, *The Mulatto and the Sculpturesque White Woman*

Tomorrow we will spend one more day in Hungary – with tickets to see the parliament building and we’d like to visit the inside of the second largest church of medieval Buda and the seventh largest church of the medieval Hungarian Kingdom – the Matthias church. On our first day (yesterday, Saturday) after settling into the hotel after a sleepless night on the plain we walked around town towards one of Hungary’s oldest cafes and yes – we shared three pieces of cake – my absolute favorite was the cream cake – and did some sight seeing from the Fisherman’s Bastion near the Matthias church. The Fisherman’s Bastion has a beautiful view of the city. Till tomorrow.

The Hungarian Parliament Building and Margaret Island.

Final Post – Pictures

As you can imagine – we are safely back in Brooklyn NY. The final two days (days 15 & 16) of our trip consisted of traveling by boat to Flam, boarded the famous Flam railway and ended with an express train to Oslo. We arrived in the evening around 10:30 pm to Oslo and stayed at the same hotel we began our Norway trip from. Our flight was Sunday evening shortly before 8 pm so we spent our last day (with beautiful weather) visiting two museums, the Norwegian Museum of Culture and History (a stunning open air museum with homes to explore) and the Fram museum focused on early polar exploration – so cool! We ended our final day with two scoops of ice-cream and then headed to the airport. We flew a newer (somewhat budget) airline, Norse Atlantic. The flight was perfectly well run and we even landed early in NYC. To recap my trip I’ve included my top ten pictures. Enjoy and thank you for reading – till next time.

Thank you Obi, my love,- for this incredible trip and photo credit to Obi for some of these pictures. The photos are in no particular order.

My uncle Christoph and I playing Sjoelbak outside our home in Quelkhorn.

My uncle Jens, aunt Brigitte and their son’s dog out for a walk in Quelkhorn.

The summit of Raudmelen and my new waterproof sneakers.

My dear friend and sister, Tjorven, her daughter Tabea and son Klaas learning how to take a picture.

Sculpture by Gustav Vigeland, Oslo, Norway.

From the top of Raudmelen in Balestrand, Norway.

Textures and colors, the “beach” in Oslo, Norway.

Balestrand Day 14

Today’s post will focus on our hike – yes, Obi did another hike with me 🙂 I think we should start recording our hikes – so I have a clear record of his efforts! You know, the Franimal loves the mountains, Obi on the other hand could settle for a different kind of adventure. But – he is a dedicated partner and today – he persevered through a good climb. Yesterday we spoke with the local (and only) adventure group. They lead hikes, kayak and motor boat tours. I asked about good hiking options and it was recommended we climb to Raudmelen – 972 meters (3,189 ft) – from our starting point, we are at sea level – so we joyfully got to climb every single step. The trail begins from behind the local school – and winds first along a nature trail which is also used by the school children. I was dreaming out having space like this for a school – and how special it is for the children to have trails to play and run on during their school breaks. They even built a type of “tree” house structure to play in. So cool. Oh – I also should say that despite having rained for the last four days – the sun made an appearance today. We were incredibly lucky to have mostly some clouds, lot’s of sun and a few patches of rain. It was a perfect day for the hike. I don’t think Obi would have finished (or started) had it been raining when we began.

After exiting the nature trails (green, easy) we quickly picked up the blue (moderate) trail which leads you to some lookout points and then eventually the final red (challenging) trail marker to our summit. The green and blue trails are below the tree line – most of the trees were Birch wood – so the skinny white trunks made for a great color contrast to the vibrant green moss and wet firns. The trail was muddy at some points – given how much rain had fallen – but, as you can see from the photo below, must of the trail along the red/challenging route was laid with stones. I had read while preparing for the hike that many years ago sherpas were hired to build this trail and lay the stone “steps.”

What you see in the picture above is the start of the red trail, there are no trees and so we are immediately exposed to the elements. This picture provides you with a nice view of our summit up ahead – and the stones to get you there. The weather while sunny today provided us with mostly cloudy skies with sun patches and no rain. It’s such a treat to see the blue sky ahead. I packed our water bottle, cheese sandwiches (which I prepared from the hotel buffet breakfast), and two fruit bars from Germany. I also had a dry layer for Obi which included a new t-shirt, and long sleeve, and fresh socks if needed. Given the sharp incline of the trail – I (and Obi) start to sweat quickly. I regulate my breathing and cool my body with little tricks like rolling my shirt over my wrists to expose them to cool air. I cover my ears as the circulation to them is not great and I pump my legs in steady rhythm. Obi trails right behind me, following my every move. I carefully watch where I step to help inform his foot placement. When you hike, every step counts – EVERY step – so how and where you place your foot may seem like a small manner – but it is critical to a successful adventure. Obi sweats a lot and heavy – so I have officially given him the title of “summit changer” – he is learning to accept this hiking identity 🙂 as someone who has to change clothing at the summit. As we walked upwards we passed two small groups making their way also to the top. I always enjoy seeing other folks out on the trail – having their own adventure and enjoying what is to come. When we hit the red trail – while the photo above shows blue sky – about 200 meters further a heavy fog and rain cloud rolls in at the summit. We were about 200 meters shy of kissing the top – when the rain started to fall. Lightly at first – but then heavier and the wind picked up. Moments ago we could see all the way to the sea, and the town below – crystal clear. Now, we were hardly able to see 10 feet ahead of us. The fog was heavy and coated the top just as we arrived. The top was in the clouds – we were walking on clouds. I looked at Obi and given how drenched his two shirts were from sweat (soaked like you could wring them out) I knew our summit stay would be extremely brief. We snapped this photo – and took shelter.

Yes – shelter – a mini miracle indeed – at the summit is a hut available for hikers to stay. Inside was some old gear left behind, TP, a few beds with simple mattresses, shovels for the snow, a candle, and wood burning stove. It was warm and dry – so in a moment of great need – we sheltered in for a reset. Obi changed into dry top clothes which was a lifesaver – as he started to warm up quickly. There was a moment when I actually worried he was too cold – but thankfully I was prepared to get him ready for the dessent.

As we headed down – the fog, rain and wind passed just as readily as it arrived and low and behold….what do we see? A rainbow!

This was one of those rainbows where we could see the start and finish – and I imagined the forest gnomes running with their little feet and sacs to find the gold at either end. The wet air and sun created that natural phenomenon and the arch sprawled out in front of us framing the view of the valley below. We stood there for some time – enjoying the view and walked away, just as the rainbow faded. It felt special to see something so beautiful yet fleeting. On our way down we saw the folks we had passed and a few additional folks heading to the top. We encouraged them along and provided them with how much more time it would take to summit when they asked.

When we reached out hotel just about four hours later – we sat on our balcony – ate the cheese sandwiches and ate the view. Drank water and looked up at the climb we just accomplished. From out hotel room – we could see the summit – and honestly both felt proud.

I will end this post by saying that my mom spoke with Alexandria after her fall and despite the injury her spirits remain high. She loves her new very short haircut and seems to be glad she is back in her community working – and living with friends that understand her in most particular and special way I never will.

Tomorrow Obi and I will spend most of the day traveling back to Olso – we will in fact ride the famous Flam railway – one of (if not the steepest) mountain railways system in the world. Apparently people travel from all over to see it. We start our journey with a boat ride – transition to the Flam railway and then finally a speedier train to Oslo. We won’t get in until about 10:30 pm. We will spend our final night back at the same hotel we stayed in, in Oslo. We have nearly a full day in Oslo given our flight leaves Norway in the evening so we hope to have another mini adventure on Sunday before heading to the airport. Till then.

Oslo to Bergen Day 11, Bergen Day 12, Bergen to Balestrand Day 13

This afternoon I received a Whatsapp message from my mom and sister giving me hard time for not writing every day (as I have done on previous trips) – they had me laughing, joking around that I was in a pre-honeymoon. Very funny you two. Last night I would have written but Obi and I went to a spur of the moment concert, we heard Björk perform – live with a local string orchestra! Though, let me start from the beginning. Since leaving Oslo, it’s been raining, raining from morning till night. We learned from a crew member on our boat, that this has been the coldest summer in Norway’s history since that last 50 years. It’s been about 15 degrees colder than what they are used to (for this time of the year), and this happens to coincide with a lot of rain. While the rain is not great for city exploration it does wonders to the hundreds of waterfalls that extend from the fjords. Our journey from Oslo to Bergen took an entire day. The hotel we stayed provided us with a very hearty and delicious breakfast buffet to which we filled our stomachs and marched off to the train station. We boarded the train that should have been direct from Oslo to Bergen, however, there was track maintenance on the final leg from Voss to Bergen, so the many passengers needed to take a bus. The train ride was splendid passing along fjords and crystal blue water pools from gushing falls. It’s the kind of train ride you don’t want to end. The journey lasted about 8.5 hours – about an hour extra due to an accident on the road when we boarded the bus. The road was closed and all we could do was sit and wait. It’s a two lane road – one lane per direction with no where to go. We had a stunning view, podcasts (videos on Youtube for Obi), books to read and chocolate covered cashews so life was good. When we finally made it to Bergen – we trekked through the rain to our hotel which was nearby and settled in after eating at an Indian restaurant that was slightly off the main tourist strip.

During our full day adventure in Bergen, we started the day with a fjord cruise to Mostraumen. This was truly a lifetime travel highlight. We boarded a boat that was very crowded, given the time we arrived about 10 minutes before departure all the seats near the windows were occupied. I quickly did some reconisnacne and noticed we could hunker down outside at the top deck. A few other folks had also noticed this and so we all seemed quite pleased to have found seats under the only covering of the boat – again, it was raining from the moment we woke up – and so some overhead covering was critical. The boat departs Bergen and cruises along for an hour and a half before returning – so a total of three hours on the boat. Leaving Bergen felt just as thrilling as arriving because out on the water you have this splendid view of the land bursting with mountains and the valleys mostly covered with rich green evergreens but many of the valleys near the water’s edge are dotted with homes nestled in. Bergen is a tourist destination with old buildings – and those that are near the water’s edge are currently under construction because they seem to be shifting – askew. The city is working on raising them up and seems to be using traditional methods of construction as we could look inside to see the wooden beams as the floor – very different from the drywall and poured concrete I am used to seeing. I feel like a tourist in the city – but when you are on the water far from the city streets you somehow forget that you are visiting a place that is foreign and I feel immediately at home – the fjords given their natural composition welcome you in – the shapes of land stretch out and circle you leaving pools of deep ocean. Inside these ocean pools you have nearly 360 degree views of the land that dominates. When you look towards the land you see cliffs, covered with trees and dotted with what seem like homes of a brave human or a practical fisherman. It’s utterly delightful – and you want to take hundreds of photographs to capture it all so that you don’t forget. Despite the rain Obi and I stayed outside on the deck the whole trip. There was one point when we turned the bend of a fjord, and headed into what clearly was a rain downpour. The other’s retreated back to shelter but I was so compelled to stay where I was – alone for a few moments – only to quickly feel pools of water in my socks. Yes, I was soaked from my thighs to the tips of my toe nails. Despite how cold I was at the end of the ride, shivering vigorously – it was worth it. The boat ends it’s tour at a huge waterfall and given how the fall, falls – the boat backs up directly to the edge. This was a surprise to us and we were like kids in a candy shop – we were laughing so loud and almost screaming with glee – given how loud the falls were, pummeling down and splashing the boat. The water was white and foamy from how aggressive it fell – and truly had us spellbound. What a magical moment that was. On the return trip to Bergen we talked with our seat neighbors who said they came to Bergen from Poland to see Bjork perform – our ears perked up and we inquired more. She happened to be performing at the stage set up in the castle that was directly next to our hotel. We were thrilled – when we got back to the hotel later that afternoon, Obi bought us tickets – the concert was only for general admissions and standing. How cool – tickets to see Bjork perform – we were pumped. Obi has seen her perform and loves her music – I had never seen her perform so this was exciting for both of us.

I will say though that after exiting the boat – as I mentioned earlier I was soaking wet and finding it hard to get warm. We made our way to a few sports equipment stores and Obi bought me a waterproof pair of sneaker/shoes. After changing from my drenched socks into my backup pair and new shoes I felt alive again! We found our way to a shopping center with a public bathroom, and then ate the cheese sandwiches I made from our hotel breakfast. Warmed and fueled up – we decided to head towards the funicular which is a tram that takes you to the top of a mountain for some sightseeing. I was naturally very interested in hiking up – so Obi faced with a choice to tram it or walk it – hehehe – decided to walk with me, oh yes – he loves it! It was a steep walk – that took about 50 minutes to the top – and got us good and sweaty and a well earned beautiful view of Bergen. We took a different route down through an area fully covered in delicate green moss – soft to the touch – and drenched with water. Thankfully the rain stopped after we got off the boat so our afternoon and evening were drier. Obi noticed that from the moment we woke up to the moment we left for dinner – the lighting in Bergen had not changed. It remained grey and cloudy with the exact same coloring from morning till night – it wasn’t until we were at the concert around 9:45 pm did darkness appear.

Like I said the concert was truly next door – if we had not gone, we would’ve heard her singing from our hotel window. How glad we were to have been there – it was a small venue within the outdoor space of a castle/fort so a sense of intimacy was agreed upon – so when Björk performed Aurora I looked up at the grey cloudy sky, saw tree leaves that moved like cellulite and felt wind grace my naked eyes – tears welled up. I was moved by her voice, the sounds of the instruments – violin, chello, base – and the moment took hold of me.

So you see – this is why I couldn’t write last night – I was wrapped up in the moment. Unfortunately I went to bed crying for a different reason – I got word from my mom that my sister Alexandria who just went back to her community fell again, and this time split her chin open and needed stiches (she has barely recovered from her recent fall after breaking her nose). Her seizure activity has worsened over the years and her brain seems to be less and less responsive to medication. This has us worried – and I am utterly preoccupied by her well being and safety. And yet, somehow despite the difficulty she faces every day – the picture post hospital is one of her smiling and donning a new haircut. She is on my mind a lot right now.

I will end by sharing that today, Obi and I took a four hour ferry from Bergen to Balestrand, a small village further north in Norway. It’s been raining all day again, though that did not stop me from standing outside on the deck again for the whole trip taking in the journey. During this boat ride, I took far fewer photographs (taking the words from Björk who asked that her listeners refrain from pictures and just listen). Instead I looked out at the ocean and fjords and swooned… and was entertained by the tourists who came out every once and a while for a selfie or group photo. I considered doing a photo project of the tourists – selfie sticks, wet fleece jackets, new shoes, fancy cameras, wind swept hair does, snacks from the stand, face masks in their pockets and cigarette breaks – but instead, just watched. Our hotel is a historic sight and connects to Norway’s museum of tourism. The room we are staying in, is on the newly renovated side, but with a view we will never forget. If you could frame the view from our window, it would look like a postcard – it’s utterly perfect. And through the fog of the crestfallen mountains behind the wooden church and small homes is a waterfall – flowing thick with water into the valley. Once again grounding me into this earth.

These photos are courtesy Obi.

Soaked by the waterfall – and loving every moment.

The view from our hotel window in Balestrand- just before I finished this post the rain stopped and a small patch of blue emerged.

Quelkhorn Days 6 & 7, Kiel Days 8 & 9, Oslo Day 10

I am writing to you from Oslo, Norway – it’s nearly 9 pm and the sun is shining brightly. I might have just broken the sink in our hotel room, I needed to fill the sink and pushed the drain down – only to learn I am unable to pull it back up – oy. When Obi finishes showering I’ll call the front desk and confess – let’s see what they say. We’ve just had a glorious afternoon walking in the beautiful city of Oslo. We left Hamburg this morning after driving with my dear friend and her two children Sunday afternoon from Kiel to Hamburg. We decided to spend Sunday night in Hamburg at her parent’s house so that Monday’s trip to the airport to catch our morning flight would be easier. Staying in Kiel for a few nights with my friend, like a sister, and her family was splendid. We spent most of our time in their garden that spans nearly half a city block – it’s very long and wide – and they have put in many hours of work to create a space for relaxing, playing, and growing. They have a few plentiful fruit trees and a garden area in which we retrieved all of our evening veggies from, fresh cucumber, zucchini, arugula, onion, carrots and garlic. It’s like magic walking into their garden and harvesting incredible vegetables to enjoy. I was so happy to get to know her children (better) and spend time together going for long walks and talking. One day we also drove out to the beach for a walk in a Beech wood forest at the edge of the sea. I even darlinging jumped into the ocean for a cold and refreshing swim. While spending time on the sand, Obi had the idea to play a beach version of Bocce ball with stones. Very entertaining – complete with the odd types of throws and even a backwards throwing round. We won’t talk about who won – let’s just say I am much better with real bocce balls.

Before arriving in Kiel, Obi and I finished our days in Quelkhorn with my family. On Wednesday I had a chance to visit Bremen with my aunt. It was important for me, to, in some way revisit the stores we had frequented years ago as a child – with the help of my aunt we even found a chocolate shop that sells a most delicious truffles I still remember eating as a child. Bremen is also home to a special frozen cake served only in two flavors, strawberry or pineapple – this was my second time eating this cake and so I tried the pineapple – yum. Since we are on the topic of food, I should add that my uncle made his specialty – cheese fondue on our last night and while I loved every warm and gooey bite – so did Obi. It seemed he went bite for bite with my uncle who eats like a champ. Yes, it seems we are eating our way through Europe:)

During our last final full day in Quelkhorn, I decided to bike about 23 km (one way) to a garden which houses two of my favorite sculptures – in a town called Worpswede. There sits a buddha that laughs and a man pulling his hair in such a rage. I always was always spellbound – even as a child, by the juxtaposition of such joy and anger in these very old stone sculptress. They are below for reference. I rode my uncles new E-bike – the first time I ever sat on one. These bikes are heavy! Upon leaving I was worried about the time, and Obi said, “use the boost.” Despite the wind and long detour I needed to take given a road closure – I did not use the boost. Curious though, I did turn it on to see how it felt and immediately noticed the quick pace and ease – only to have the boost stop. I thought I was using it incorrectly, so I turned it off (as I did not really want to use it anyway) – but learned upon asking my aunt that when you are biking over 25 km per hour – the boost does not activate – these are for safety purposes as these bikes are not permitted to go any faster. Ha, that was a good laugh for me. The pace at which I was riding – was speedier than what the boost could do. So – I guessed the Franimal outboosted the boost?

On Friday after saying farewell to my family and vowing to return soon – we boarded a train to Hamburg and met my godmother and family. It had been many years since we last spent time together, therefore, talking about our lives and catching up felt very special. We ate lunch with her, her daughter and partner – and then walked along the Ulster river in Hamburg. Sailboats, paddle boarders and kayakers decorated the river complete with two sailing schools for children. We lost track of time and took some of the cake she had to go – and made a dash to the nearest train station to meet my friend. The first week of this trip – for me – has been truly about remembering a place in the world where I melt into happiness – and reconnecting with my family and friends who I have missed and longed to see after so many years. I did just that. Our week ahead in Norway, a place I have never visited, already feels different.

After a quick snack in our room this afternoon (and another smooth flight) we ventured into the city for a walk to the sculpture garden I had been informed by a few people to visit. If you ever find yourself in Oslo, I highly recommend a visit to the Vigeland Park, a park which features Gustav Vigeland’s most well known work. He was a Norwegian sculpture and wood carver who died in 1943. His work is featured in the park in bronze, granite and wrought iron. From the entrance we entered you first cross a bridge with bronze figures along each side. Each one featuring a human form in different pose. All of the figures in this park are nudes, and the body shapes and size vary along with the age of the person. His work features many children, couples and elderly people. As you walk along the bridge you are quickly taken hold by figures that seem reflective and lost in thought, while others are chaotic and many are sensual and loving. His figures are interconnected and dramatic at times with women embracing children almost as if their child was afraid, or two men held together by arms, legs and backs in an intimate and private moment. There are many sculptures with men and children in moments of admiration and teaching. Each one, and there are many figures, invite you to write a story. Along the way to the sculpture park it started to rain, we sheltered under some trees and waited for the clouds to pass – eventually gifting us bright sun casting rays of sharp light on the green bronze and stone. Obi and I spent some time walking and gazing. We ventured back towards our hotel for a shoe change (my right foot was hurting) and then made our way to the Oslo Opera House – another must see. This building is a tremendous architectural wonder – and designed so that you can walk up to the roof of the building and overlook the Oslo harbor and distant green islands. The Nordic sun was perfectly aligned with the sharp lines of concrete, metal and stone – which complimented the white and grey buildings surrounding the Opera House. When we reached the roof, overlooking the water we were lucky enough to hear a choir group sing two songs. Their voices were the perfect accompaniment to the surroundings and gave sound to what I was feeling. Sitting on the slanted roof of the Opera House with the sun gave me such a feeling of inner peace.

We ended out day at a vegan restaurant next to our hotel, a delicious blend of fresh veggies and rice. As we were sitting there I heard a familiar voice. I look up and behind Obi, ordering food was Woody Harrelson! Yes, the famous actor and his wife. I of course did not know his name, but I recognized his face and voice – Obi knew his name. It was too funny – I never see famous people (or at least I never recognize them) and there he was, about two feet from me ordering the same meal I had. We both thought that was pretty neat and ended our day with gelato – and yes, they had hazelnut, my favorite.

So, remember when I broke the sink…, I spoke with the front desk and they sent up someone to take a look. No sooner had the person some in the bathroom, was it fixed – it’s a push and release drain! So, when you close the drain, to stop water flowing, in order to release the drain or open it again, you push down and it pops up/out. It took him about 2 seconds to “fix” it – it was never broken or damaged we just did not even think it needed a simple push – as the quick fix. Ah, the European engineering does it again! I wonder if Woody would have figured that out:)

Tomorrow we take a train to Bergen, Norway.

Zürich Day 3, Quelkhorn Days 4 & 5

Hello Again, It’s been a few days since since I have written – I have been spending time with my family in the evenings – going to bed late and getting up early. I am here in the place of my childhood adventures in Germany. A truly special place for me. My uncles and aunts live in a small country town called Quelkhorn, near Fischerhude. My mother for as long as I can remember took us, her four children, to Germany for the summer – to a part of the country surrounded by wheat, corn and sunflower fields. Scattered in the fields are pastures for cows and horses – and if you are lucky pigs, goats and sheep. I learned from my mother’s brother, that Fischerhude, less than 100 years ago was covered by water – and used as the main eel source for Bremen (the nearest major city). Yes eels – were rampant and caught, though small in size based on the photos I looked at- it was a major source of revenue for the town. It was decided around 1940 to drain the area as a living space, to build homes and farm. A few small canals or thick streams remain throughout the town and I already started to imagine the eels swimming along. Being here – brings me a kind of inner peace that it hard to describe. I am immediately brought back to my childhood days, running barefoot through the hay fields and climbing the large hay rolls – hoping the dried straw would not poke my feet too hard. Exploring the corn fields and sometimes sneaking corn right off the stalk to chew the sweet kernels – and biking to our favorite ice-cream shop and getting my (still to this day) favorite flavor, hazelnut. Using the money we had to buy chocolate Kinder eggs (with small toys inside) and sleeping in the barn attics with friends. In the surrounding area of our house, is the Moore – where, what we call peat moss was harvested. This is a protected area, given how special the peat moss is. This was harvested, buy cutting bricks of peat moss from the earth and drying them in pyramid type structures to sell for heating in homes, to get the bricks out of the Moore the farmers laed railway tracks and pushed carts out from the Moore to the road, then loaded to other transpiration methods. The peat moss retains heat well when it’s dried – so when walking through the Moore touching the ground you can feel the heat radiating and your feet are suddenly very warn. It’s pure beauty and while walking there with my uncle we spotted a fox, smelled the peat moss and evergreens and caught the sun draping the dried grass and moss.

I should rewind a bit though – I left you last still in Zürich – with plans to kayak out into the lake. Unfortunately for me, I texted the owner too late and there were no kayaks available. So, I shifted gears to my second (favorite to hiking) activity – biking:) I did some research to locate a bike rental in Zürich so that I could bike along the lake’s edge. The entire lake is 56 miles – totally doable in a day with a good bike and a few hours. I did not have too much time and more importantly, I did not have a good bike. After visiting one bike shop – only to discover it was non-existent (Google error)- I found another and rented a Holland type touring bike (the only type of bike they rented out). I sit upright on a wide saddle with flat pedals and a basket in the back. I started the ride with my backpack on – trying to learn forward as I do on my bike, The Beast, only to quickly realize this was not going to work. I needed to embrace how the Swiss people ride: upright, relaxed and actually use the basket. So, I pulled over, put my backpack in the basket and imagined myself on a bike ride – for the experience – not for the heavy push and ride I am used to and much more comfortable doing. It took some adjusting – and I even willed myself to relax my shoulders and smile – though quickly upon seeing the lake up close I was lost in its beauty. I had no set plan as to how far I would bike, or to where – I just biked along the road with the lake on my left. It was easy to not get lost, following one road along the edge, I went. At times I was biking alongside the cars which – I felt nervous about doing given I had no helmet – that was probably the most unfamiliar feeling of the ride. Like leaving your house without pants on – I felt out of place and extremely aware of my surroundings given if felt unsafe to bike with a naked head. Luckily the cars in Europe are much more aware, and patient with bikers and give a wide berth when passing – danke! Along the lake were multiple jump-in in points where people drops their bags and dipped in the water. I took a few moments to stop and look – but mainly I just rode. I had the wind on my bike heading from the city and then naturally upon my return rode into the wind. I will admit – at one point a biker passed me, riding a road bike – and I powered up the gear and set my mark to beat him. After about 1/2 a kilometer, into the wind I left him in the dust. Oy, what a joyful feeling – little did he know I was racing him. All in all I biked 30 miles – and was glad to have seen more of the rural areas along the lake. After returning the bike I walked to the Zürich Google office to meet Obi – change and head to the airport. We arrived in Hamburg ontime and met my aunt and uncle – who after a few attempts (many restaurants close on Monday in Germany and it was late) – found us a delicious restaurant to eat at. After a hearty pasta meal we drove an hour home.

On Tuesday Obi and I spent the morning with my other uncle who lives next door, a stones throw (literally) and enjoyed a typically German breakfast with fresh rolls, and many spreads and cheese to enjoy. I should add that in the morning, it was raining and I took my mini waterproof hip bag, and ran early in the morning to the bakery to pick up some fresh bread. Fresh rolls in the morning with local honey and butter is such a treat! A far cry from my daily oats – but the best way to start a vacation day in Germany. Obi and I then played a very thrilling dutch game called Sjoelbak (Dutch shuffleboard) during which you slide wooden discs along a two meter board into skinny slots with either 1,2 3, or 4 points. As hard as my uncle and I tried – Obi won by a few points against my score and my uncle in 3rd place. We’ve been joking a lot about a re-match – which is scheduled for Friday morning before we head back to Hamburg for a visit with my God-mother (another aunt) and then a weekend with a dear friend and her family, who I worked with in South Africa.

This evening Obi and I went for a long walk with my aunt and uncle – to Fischerhude and back for a local pizza dinner. Tomorrow my other uncle is making his famous cheese fondue – this will be Obi’s first time eating it. Obi will spend one more day working and I will venture out on a bike to some surrounding towns.

Zurich, 2022 (Days 1,2)

Greetings from Zurich, Switzerland. Land of decadent chocolate, gripping mountains, alpine lakes and perfectly soft pretzels…can you tell what I have been indulging in? Obi and I flew Swiss Air on Friday night for an overnight flight from JFK to Zurich – gratefully despite the travel woes inflicting thousands of people around the world right now, our flight was smooth sailing and our luggage also arrived just as we walked up to the carousel. Leading up to the flight I had done a few hours of research on neck pillows – never having owned one I walked the line of being envious of those that looked so comfortable sleeping on the plane with a relaxed neck – while – simultaneously thinking that it’s an utterly unnecessary item to travel with when space is so limited. By the time we got through airport security (which was also pretty smooth and the crowds reminded me of pre-covid travel which felt good) – I was still questioning if I regretted not buying a neck pillow or if I ultimately made the right decision to not get one. I think Obi was ready to give it a try (and probably stop me from my conitual fretting) and, so, he bought each of us one – in the airport and Hudson News. And well, not to dwell too much more on this subject – having a neck pillow on an overnight flight really was so much better. It’s not perfect and it didn’t help me sleep – but at least when I leaned back and closed my eyes I was much more comfortable with, than without. So…yes, now I will be one of those people with their neck pillow sweetly tucked into its travel case hanging from my backpack bobbing along, ready for action on the next long flight. We made it to our hotel by early afternoon – and luckily the room was ready and so we settled in. I should add that after taking the train from the airport to the Zurich HB, we needed to ride a local tram to our hotel. I was just marveling at the efficiency of the train system and the clarity of signage when we realized we had got on a tram (#4) headed in the wrong direction. We hopped off and crossed the street to ride the same tram (#4) going back. The next one arrives and we board – only to see that once again, it was the wrong direction and indeed the first tram was actually correct. Too funny – so we get off again (back where we started) and wait for the same tram (#4), again. This time we go two stops and noticed it’s turned in a direction we don’t need and once again, had to get off. This time we look at the map to notice a new route and that we actually needed the #3 tram, not the #4. So, now, boarding our fourth tram in a four block radius, the #3 – we arrive at our hotel stop in about 10 minutes. That was a good laugh. After some quick rinses we denied ourselves the very essential sleep (we both desired) and ventured out to see the “old town” – and explore the city attractions. We picked up a local free city map – which is the ultimate tourist trade mark, and wandered. It was a wonderful outing, meandering along canals, scenic bridges, swaying weeping willows and taking in the stunning views of Zurichsee (lake). My instinctual chocolate radar guided us to a specialty shop and we picked out some truffles for dessert. We also found a shop outside one of Zurich’s famous churches, Grossmunster, that sold dried fruit and bought some candied Kumquats. They were sweet at first with a bitter tingle left to linger in your mouth. The church was a wonderful place for a moment of respite, my eyes were burning and so I sat in silence – with them closed- allowing the lids to rest. The deep red and orange stained glass windows were magical. We ate dinner at a Greek restaurant around the corner from our hotel – the salad was mostly traditional though it was served with a type of whipped feta instead of chunks. I think I feel asleep in about 30 seconds – and woke up 9 hours later:) Good as new, ready for our next adventure.

Sunday, was a great day. I wanted to visit the mountains and go exploring for a day – getting out from the city center was key. I conducted a lot of research at home into some towns accessible by trains and we decided to visit Linthal and ride the steepest outdoor tram to the Braunwald (a car-less ski resort) town. From Braunwald we decided to hike to the Oberblegsee. We left early enough in the morning with a mad dash to the main station to catch an 8:43 train. We had just enough time to grab two käse (cheese) pretzels (yes, I am using a lot of my German skills to communicate and get us around) for breakfast. Once we boarded the train we were in a swarm of hikers – and I was suddenly in my happy place. I knew we were headed to the right place – when literally every passenger in our car had hiking gears, boots, polls, packs, H2O hoses and functional sun hats. The women in our seat quad both confirmed we made a good choice in terms of our destination. The hike was a solid balance of incredibly alpine scenery – lush green grass, Swiss cows with ringing bells around their necks to be heard in the valley, jagged mountain cliffs up above, paragliders in the clouds, wild mountain flowers and a cool breeze. The trail took us just about an hour and half to a most beautiful fresh alpine lake. Yes, this lake is filled from the snow melt drifting down from the mountains. It’s perfectly clear and crisp. I stripped down to the essentials and jumped in. The lake drops quickly getting deep fast – but you hardly notice floating at the surface looking out to the scenery and allowing yourself to forget all your troubles. It was a perfect hike to a perfect location. While getting lost at sea, a raft of baby ducks paddled over for an inspection. I imagined they wanted to play. Obi challenged me to some rock skipping competitions to which I humbly lost (barley getting one skip in) – he was exceptional and getting the rock far out into the lake with many consecutive skips – well done Obi. It was hard to leave such a serene place but eventually needed to make a move and walk back into town. On the way we stopped at the alpine cafe and each got a cool drink to refresh ourselves and carried on. The sun was stronger on the return and we noticed patches of melting asphalt. Today’s adventure left me longing for more, so I’ve planned tomorrow’s activity, kayaking! Obi will be working at the Google office tomorrow, so I will rent a kayak from a local place we stumbled upon, to paddle out into the Zurich lake. I can’t wait. Tomorrow night we fly to Hamburg.

Joshua Tree – Day 7

Jumbo rocks and hazelnut gelato – what could be better? Today Obi and I explored Joshua Tree National Park – despite the extremely high heat. We headed out in the morning, driving about 45 minutes to the park entrance. I had downloaded the map of the park but we also gathered one from the visitor’s center just in case. Obi had been to Joshua Tree years ago and had moments along the drive of, “yes, this does look familiar” – but seemed to experience new elements the second time around. It was very hot today – as it’s been here in the desert. Today’s temps while out and about in the park were hovering just under 100 degrees – our hotel was at 106 degrees but given the slightly higher elevation of the park, our phone indicated 96 degrees in Joshua Tree. We knew we wouldn’t be doing any long hiking trails but along the way we explored various look out points and shorter trails. Along on of the paths we met a ranger who said he turned back two couples because they didn’t have any water (on the 1 mile) walk. At first I thought – it’s only a mile you’re fine without water, but truthfully – even a mile in this heat left me feeling parched. Joshua Tree is a mix of two deserts meeting: the Mojave and Colorado Desert. The park is covered in Joshua Trees at some points as far as the eye can see. These are relatively short trees with scales for bark and spiky leaves as branches. The branches are short for the most part and at certain points twist with another. The trees do not beckon you to climb it – given the defensive nature of their leaves. After running up a large rock outcrop and back down, I walked unknowingly past a dense bush with spikes like the Joshua Tree and came away with about four large “claw” like marks on my left arm. These new markings paired well with the thorny scratches I acquired at the Grand Canyon. While it’s the desert and it’s hot, there was for the most part a steady light breeze which offered a sense of relief from the heat. Most of the trail heads we saw span across long flat plains weaving in and out of the trees. There is a main road which passes through the park, creating an easy route to follow to see some exhilarating sights. I asked the ranger if climbing up long the rocks is alright and he was more than encouraging but did warn us that going up is easier than coming down (yes, I knew that) but found his information helpful. This park is truly a climber’s paradise with so many rocks to climb. There were many moments where I skipped ahead or up and few rocks only to see a new point of destination or route and ventured onward. Here are just a few of the places we explored, Quail Springs, Hidden Valley, Hall of Horrors, Skull Rock, Jumbo Rock and Split rock. What great names!? At each of these locations we parked the car, grabbed out water and camera and went exploring. You can imagine what Skull rock is – a rock truly shaped as a skull – I managed to climb up and sit in the right eye socket for a fun photo. Jumbo Rock is a large campsite and we had been warned not to stray too far because once you start climbing and exploring these rocks, there are no trails so you have to have a strong point of reference. It was easy to navigate though and wow, these rocks were dynamic. They are rocks that originated underground as a result of volcanic magma which was pushed upward and interacted with the overlying rock. These two elements became granite and eventually cooled forming horizontal and vertical cracks which eventually interacted with soil and ground water expanding the angular cracks and forming larger cracks. The soil finally washes away and leaves what we see now, large piles of rock which look like toys left behind from a family of giants. The rocks at Jumbo rock are round along the edges – the curve in their shape leaves me feeling confident as I scale up and down. There are so many opportunities to jump from one rock to the next, or use your hand to pull and prop yourself up to reach a new lookout point. I was rearing to go all day and Obi seemed to find his inner climber and joined me on most of the climbs taking the opportunity to look past what he could see from the ground level. We had some wonderful photo opportunities. He took one of me which I’ll post here out in the Jumbo Rock playground. After a few hours – we ended at Split rock which truly evokes an imaginative story. I couldn’t help but think about the Greek Gods on Olympus. Maybe it was Aries or Athena playing catch and someone dropped the ball – down it feel from high heavens and landed with a thud on earth – the impact was so strong that it cracked the rock perfectly along the edge. The crack was balanced by other smaller rocks on the ground so the two parts never fully separated. I tried to push the enormously large boulder back together but, alas, my Franimal strength was not suited for games with the Gods.

By the end of the road – our bodies and mouths were so dried out and water was becoming our focus. While we had plenty of water at the start of the day, running, climbing, jumping and exploring this playground left us with little to no resources left. It was time to leave and find something to drink. We stopped at a 7-eleven and bought five drinks – guzzling three of them pretty quickly. When we got back to the hotel I went for a drip in the pool while Obi stuck his feet in and caught up on F1 racing news. We ended out night with a delicious dinner from downtown Palm Springs and a splendid scoop of my favorite ice-cream flavor, hazelnut, yum. This flavor brings me directly to my youthful summers in Germany.

This will be my final post for the trip – tomorrow morning we leave in the morning to LA to catch our plane home.

In total Obi will have driven us a little of 1,000 miles from Arizona, to Utah, then Nevada and finally California. Obi is a wonderful partner, for me and the Franimal. He knows when I get that look in my eye and my body lurches forward. He supports me and loves me with all his heart. We both end the day writing down our thoughts, which feels so comforting sitting side by side writing together. As always I hope you enjoyed “joining me” on these adventures – and enduring what the Franimal has to offer. With love, till next time.

Palm Springs – Day 6

Today’s highlight was taking the Palm Springs Arial Tramway. Our day was mostly a day of driving so there was less of an adventurous spirit today. We took our time leaving the hotel this morning and managed to find something to eat on the casino floor which we ate in the parking lot of the hotel. Yes, very scenic indeed – but there wasn’t any place to sit as hoards of people were bustling along with their suitcases checking out. The few spots open for business were packed so we grabbed something to go and ate before we began the long drive to Palm Springs. We chose to take the shortest route which meant we drove through the Mojave National Preserve. While the road was paved – given recent flash floods and nature’s elements there were large sections of gravel with extremely large rocks strewn about the road. We had about 60 miles through this preserve and the beginning part was slow moving. We were both a bit worried – me more so – about the car’s tires and their sustainability on such inconsistent roads. I had a moment where I wished we had four wheel drive. I tried to enjoy the scenery of thousands of small Joshua Trees. Some sections showed signs again of fires – but for the most part the trees seemed to be thriving. Facing the direction the wind blows their short arms on the long trunks with sturdy spikes made me wonder what and how the wood was harvested. I did some reading and learned that the myth behind the name, derived from the Mormons who settled out west and called the tree “Josh” from the bible given his “outstretched arms.” The trees, when grown in the right climate, flower – which is not as common. The leaves can be used for baskets or sandal making by the native people who lived in these deserts, along with roasting the seeds and flower buds for food. It was helped to learn a bit about the tree before visiting the park tomorrow. Back to the drive…we made it through with about a quarter tank of gas left and pulled into the first station we saw. This was an old station with pumps that needed to be unlocked, with no digital screens. There were dials that turned to indicate how much gas we purchased – and we needed to pay inside (not at the pump). It was nice to be transported back into time.

So, upon reaching out hotel it was late in the afternoon – we settled in and made our way to the tramway. This is a very special sight to see. It is a two and a half mile climb with the tram, passing over five towers. The towers we learned are American made and the cables were Swiss made. The tram has a rotating floor base the only one of its kind in the US. The ride takes about 15 minutes – given the extreme height you climb over 3.5 thousand feet in elevation – it is described as going from two totally different climate zones like Mexico to Alaska. At the base of the tram the temperatures measured around 106 degrees, at the top it was 76 degrees. Cool as a cucumber. The tram releases you into what felt like a truly magical place, the San Jacinto State Park. Given the appreciated shift in temperature and the tall Jeffrey Pines you forget the desert is below. We ventured out to a lovely natural path trail that was just about a mile long for a look around the park. Oh – how splendid it was. The best part was being able to smell the delicious Jeffrey Pines that have a distinctive butterscotch smell. My mouth started to water for a Werther’s butterscotch candy – the trees were delightful to engage with and I appreciated using my sense of smell to take in the environment. I did not know what to expect at the top of the tram ride – so this nature’s paradise was a welcomed treat. We eventually made our way back to the tram for a dynamic ride down – the conductor played music, songs like “Sweet Caroline.” It seemed everyone knew the lyrics and so we were all (about 30 people) singing along and dancing as the tram descended back into the hot desert land below. I was laughing – what a joyful celebration of strangers. Obi and I drove into the downtown area for dinner and stumbled upon a street fair. We decided to sample the options at the fair devouring a falafel salad, tamales and a dish similar to Arepas. We clapped and cheered for a group of street performers who were showing us their break-dancing skills. Well folks – we have one more day before we head home on Saturday from LA. Tomorrow we plan to drive through Joshua Tree and not melt into the hot earth.

Zion – Day 5

I’m overlooking – in the distance the Las Vegas airport – from our Paris hotel room. The Eiffel towers stands just on the other side of these walls – a replica of the original. At first I was less pleased with the view of air-conditioning units and the soft rumble of a plane landing or taking off but honestly, it’s a sense of calm compared to what lies just below us on the casino floor or out on the strip. Being from NYC – “the city” – I had expected to handle bright lights, crowds of people, slot machines and Corona beer with limes everywhere – but maybe I underestimated what Vegas had to offer. I was utterly taken back by the sheer size of the hotels, casinos and general environment. Obi and I spent a few hours walking around yesterday so that I could see what it’s all about. Going in and out of the the Paris Las Vegas into the Bellagio and then Caesar’s Palace – is like a true odyssey. The whole network of pedestrian traffic shuttles you and in out of these hotels and casinos coxing you with every bit of energy to gamble or spend money. Pedestrians walk over pedestrian bridges so you have no choice but to go in and out of the hotels. There is hardly a surface area without an advertisement – you are inundated with ads for food (mostly steaks and burgers), alcohol, naked people (mostly women), gambling, and so much high end designer clothing. Vegas is certainly the place to spend money, and lot’s of it if you were so inclined. Obi bought a Gatorade from a cafe on the casino floor paying nearly four times as much for one, as from the gas station just outside the strip. The casino ceilings are painted with blue skies, clocks are absent and the restaurants serve breakfast 24 hours a day so it’s easy to lose any sense of time. Money is thrown away like trash – thoughtless and constant. While eating dinner we heard a few loud group cheers from deep inside the casino floor – they probably beat the odds and actually won something. I did have the chance to see the famous Bellagio water fountain show – we happened to be walking by when the first one was scheduled to begin, noticing people gathering with their cameras in hand. Water propels so high in the sky and with a breeze blowing there were multiple times we were sprayed – ah freshly chlorinated water all over me – haha, yes it was hot outside, very hot and the droplets were refreshing but who knows what is in that water. As per a recommendation from a dear colleague and friend from work – we booked tickets to visit the Neon Museum. This is not the typical show one might expect when visiting Vegas – but well worth the tour. We had a nighttime guided tour – so that we could see the historical neon signs restored and lit up in all their glory. The museum entrance is inspired by one of the oldest signs they have in their boneyard collection – like a concha (shell in Spanish). The tour walks you through their boneyard to see signs that have been donated to the NFP museum. Most of the signs are in their “resting place” – waiting to be restored or repurposed for parts. Historical landmark signs are lit up – bright and glowing. One of their featured signs was, Moulin Rouge, which was one of the first signs designed by a woman – using her original font for the lettering. Moulin Rouge was also first racially integrated club in Vegas which set the course for all clubs and casinos to come. I also found the old Sassy Sally sign to be interesting given the subliminal messaging they used turning their “s” in a subtle dollar signs – for the early 1930’s this was groundbreaking. We learned about the process for making neon mixing the gasses neon and argon together to make different colors – and the glass blowing technique to shape the tubes. They also had a Hard Rock Cafe sign which they raised $350,000 to restore to a working condition. Being so close to these relics also gave you a sense of size – these signs are huge! When you see them mounted on a building it’s not as obvious – or noticeable – how large they are – but here laying on the ground you can truly feel their gerth. If you were interested you could Google the Neon Museum and using the satellite view – see the original skull used for the Treasure Island casino (this casino is now just called TI because they found too many families were coming with their kids and the adults weren’t gambling enough – so they changed the name to discourage parents from bringing their children). The fiberglass skull is fragile and so they have to display it laying down – the skull can be see staring right up at you through the satellite image – very fun! Try it. Upon leaving the North Rim of the GC – I was wondering about and feeling upset imagining I may never see such a beautiful place again. I was comforted by the idea that we may return one day in our older age – like many of the people we saw for another visit. Leaving Vegas will not induce these feelings – I don’t have any hesitation about leaving and not never returning.

I do want to end this post though with my most memorable experience of the day – hiking to the TOP of Angel’s Landing. Yes – the Franimal was in her truest form this morning. She woke up at 5 am – it was dark outside and cool. After a quick morning routine she was out the door and power walking her way to Zion for their first shuttle of the day. She was heading back to Angel’s Landing for revenge – a moment to conquer the summit. Despite her efforts to catch the first shuttle there were many people already on line and so she caught the forth shuttle which only put her 10 minutes behind schedule. Most of the folks there at such an early hour were headed to two places, Angel’s Landing and the Narrows. Items like wooden walking sticks and water boots made it easy to distinguish between the two groups. She exited stop six – waited to use the restroom once more and started her march. She knew that most of the folks ahead of her would be passed – with her quick gate and steady breathing. As she mentioned in her post yesterday – this hike is labeled as streanouse and expected to take about four hours to complete. Beginning phase one she found a very strong rhythm in her step and passed each person in her way. Often needing to mutter politely “on your left” or “on your right” so as to not startle the hikers on their way. The path on the switchbacks is narrow and at some points with a deep drop so you need to be mindful of the safety of those around you while passing. She passed folks who she’d see board the first shuttle – when this happened it was hard to hide the grin across her face. She completed phase one in 22 minutes and practically skipped through the transition phase along the back of the mountain to the second set of switchbacks, phase three. There was not a moment to stop and take a photo – being the second visit in 24 hours – she had already taken her pictures the first day. The was a revenge hike and so only one thing mattered – reaching the top as fast as she could. Step, puff, lunge, step puff lunge, her pattern repeated until the final set of very tight switchbacks was completed and she stood at Scout’s Pavillion by the 34 minute. A quick glance at her watch, some sips of water from the camel pack and a moment to bang out the sand from her shoe treads and phase three was initiated, the “chains.” Without even stopping to look down at the drop – which is deadly – she grabbed hold of the first link and began her march. Now this section is tricky for many reasons – most obviously the danger factor. It is dangerous – very (Obi did share with me upon my safe return that since the year 2000, 13 people have died on this trail). But less obviously you are truly working together with other people – given the nature of the “one way street” you need to “dance” with folks going up and down and notice their own coordination, balance, fear, grit. The Franimal had to slow her pace at times given the father and two sons ahead – but when she reached a landing of sorts it was a good opportunity to pass. It was at this moment she found herself in front of a woman – who she soon learned their name, Kendra. Kendra struck up a conversation, asking about the trail shoes she had on (Solomon’s – the best!). Kendra and The Franimal became fast friends – and like the lyrics of a song Obi and I listened to “From strangers to friends” we were chatting for the rest of the hike. We ended up behind a couple who was heading up with a steady pace and so we made our way to the summit together. There was only more section along this incredibly steep route where the Franimal actually questioned her own safety passing over a very narrow bridge like pass with only a chain to hold. The path was narrow enough for two human- feet and a drop on both sides. That moment was truly intense – but again, with such a laser focus – there was hardly a moment to imagine what could happen. We talked about how when reaching the summit we would snap a quick picture and power our way down. We both did not want to get stuck waiting for hundreds of people coming up given it’s so tough to navigate the chains with two way traffic. I attached below the quick photo taken with a cell phone of the stunning valley below. The sun was behind us – offering her light to the land. When the Franimal took the final step to the summit – she felt a heavy sense of vindication and accomplishment – having reached the top in about an hour and 10 minutes. A bird call to celebrate was needed and a roar to leave her mark. She applauded the other folks you made it there as well – offering a sense of cheer and community amongst this group if wild travelers. A mentioned – we took a few photos and the Franimal was ready to descend. We were determined to make our way down and so as a pair it was easier to weave in an out of groups that were heading up. I should mention that as we headed up only one couple passed us on their way down. So I had to imagine that Kendra and I were the next set of people making their way down for the day which meant that everytime we passed a group of people they asked us, “How much longer?” with a look of desperation in their eyes, or “You’re done already – wow, your fast. Is it scarier as you go?” or “Are there more chains?” or “Is the top crowded?” We answered each one with a positive cheer, accurate information and dispelled any myths folks might’ve had. Down, down, down we went and before we knew it – we had reached Scout’s Pavillion and headed to the switchbacks. The Franimal completed her hike in exactly 2 hours and 4 minutes – ha! Her truest beastly self came out – determined, unphased and passionate.

Obi and I listened to an interested podcast from the TED interview, driving from Zion to Vegas – it was about the idea of grit: perseverance and passion over a long period of time. The psychologist Angela Duckworth spoke about how she came to understand what makes someone successful – her conclusion, grit (be mindful I am summarizing greatly here). Grit is a stronger factor in determining your success in life than your IQ. The perseverance and passion over a long period of time – can it be taught? Is it learned? Are you born with it? What about the circumstances a person faces and how does this impact their ability to demonstrate true grit? We listened and wondered about these questions – and I couldn’t help but think about my students and the children and teachers I have worked with over the years. Those who demonstrated grit – and those who struggled to – and why. I also couldn’t help but wonder about the Franimal and the range she felt not completing Angel’s Landing the day prior and what drove her to feel such a strong need to go back for a second time – to summit the mountain, and complete what she had started. Why couldn’t she be satisfied with almost getting there? Is her determination wild, reckless and uncensored? Is it dedication? Is is passion and perseverance? Is it grit?

Moulin Rouge from the Neon Museum and the view from Angel’s Landing summit.