Joshua Tree – Day 7

Jumbo rocks and hazelnut gelato – what could be better?  Today Obi and I explored Joshua Tree National Park – despite the extremely high heat.  We headed out in the morning, driving about 45 minutes to the park entrance.  I had downloaded the map of the park but we also gathered one from the visitor’s center just in case.  Obi had been to Joshua Tree years ago and had moments along the drive of, “yes, this does look familiar” – but seemed to experience new elements the second time around.  It was very hot today – as it’s been here in the desert.  Today’s temps while out and about in the park were hovering just under 100 degrees – our hotel was at 106 degrees but given the slightly higher elevation of the park, our phone indicated 96 degrees in Joshua Tree.  We knew we wouldn’t be doing any long hiking trails but along the way we explored various look out points and shorter trails.  Along on of the paths we met a ranger who said he turned back two couples because they didn’t have any water (on the 1 mile) walk.  At first I thought – it’s only a mile you’re fine without water, but truthfully – even a mile in this heat left me feeling parched.  Joshua Tree is a mix of two deserts meeting: the Mojave and Colorado Desert.  The park is covered in Joshua Trees at some points as far as the eye can see.  These are relatively short trees with scales for bark and spiky leaves as branches.  The branches are short for the most part and at certain points twist with another.  The trees do not beckon you to climb it – given the defensive nature of their leaves.  After running up a large rock outcrop and back down, I walked unknowingly past a dense bush with spikes like the Joshua Tree and came away with about four large “claw” like marks on my left arm.  These new markings paired well with the thorny scratches I acquired at the Grand Canyon.  While it’s the desert and it’s hot, there was for the most part a steady light breeze which offered a sense of relief from the heat.  Most of the trail heads we saw span across long flat plains weaving in and out of the trees.  There is a main road which passes through the park, creating an easy route to follow to see some exhilarating sights.  I asked the ranger if climbing up long the rocks is alright and he was more than encouraging but did warn us that going up is easier than coming down (yes, I knew that) but found his information helpful.  This park is truly a climber’s paradise with so many rocks to climb.  There were many moments where I skipped ahead or up and few rocks only to see a new point of destination or route and ventured onward.   Here are just a few of the places we explored, Quail Springs, Hidden Valley, Hall of Horrors, Skull Rock, Jumbo Rock and Split rock.  What great names!?  At each of these locations we parked the car, grabbed out water and camera and went exploring.  You can imagine what Skull rock is  – a rock truly shaped as a skull – I managed to climb up and sit in the right eye socket for a fun photo.  Jumbo Rock is a large campsite and we had been warned not to stray too far because once you start climbing and exploring these rocks, there are no trails so you have to have a strong point of reference.  It was easy to navigate though and wow, these rocks were dynamic.  They are rocks that originated underground as a result of volcanic magma which was pushed upward and interacted with the overlying rock.  These two elements became granite and eventually cooled forming horizontal and vertical cracks which eventually interacted with soil and ground water expanding the angular cracks and forming larger cracks.  The soil finally washes away and leaves what we see now, large piles of rock which look like toys left behind from a family of giants.  The rocks at Jumbo rock are round along the edges – the curve in their shape leaves me feeling confident as I scale up and down.  There are so many opportunities to jump from one rock to the next, or use your hand to pull and prop yourself up to reach a new lookout point.  I was rearing to go all day and Obi seemed to find his inner climber and joined me on most of the climbs taking the opportunity to look past what he could see from the ground level.  We had some wonderful photo opportunities.  He took one of me which I’ll post here out in the Jumbo Rock playground.  After a few hours – we ended at Split rock which truly evokes an imaginative story.  I couldn’t help but think about the Greek Gods on Olympus.  Maybe it was Aries or Athena playing catch and someone dropped the ball – down it feel from high heavens and landed with a thud on earth – the impact was so strong that it cracked the rock perfectly along the edge.  The crack was balanced by other smaller rocks on the ground so the two parts never fully separated.  I tried to push the enormously large boulder back together but, alas, my Franimal strength was not suited for games with the Gods.   

By the end of the road – our bodies and mouths were so dried out and water was becoming our focus.  While we had plenty of water at the start of the day, running, climbing, jumping and exploring this playground left us with little to no resources left.  It was time to leave and find something to drink.  We stopped at a 7-eleven and bought five drinks – guzzling three of them pretty quickly.  When we got back to the hotel I went for a drip in the pool while Obi stuck his feet in and caught up on F1 racing news.  We ended out night with a delicious dinner from downtown Palm Springs and a splendid scoop of my favorite ice-cream flavor, hazelnut, yum.  This flavor brings me directly to my youthful summers in Germany.

This will be my final post for the trip – tomorrow morning we leave in the morning to LA to catch our plane home.

In total Obi will have driven us a little of 1,000 miles from Arizona, to Utah, then Nevada and finally California.    Obi is a wonderful partner, for me and the Franimal.  He knows when I get that look in my eye and my body lurches forward.   He supports me and loves me with all his heart.  We both end the day writing down our thoughts, which feels so comforting sitting side by side writing together.  As always I hope you enjoyed “joining me” on these adventures – and enduring what the Franimal has to offer.  With love, till next time. 

Palm Springs – Day 6

Today’s highlight was taking the Palm Springs Arial Tramway.   Our day was mostly a day of driving so there was less of an adventurous spirit today.  We took our time leaving the hotel this morning and managed to find something to eat on the casino floor which we ate in the parking lot of the hotel.  Yes, very scenic indeed – but there wasn’t any place to sit as hoards of people were bustling along with their suitcases checking out.  The few spots open for business were packed so we grabbed something to go and ate before we began the long drive to Palm Springs.  We chose to take the shortest route which meant we drove through the Mojave National Preserve.  While the road was paved – given recent flash floods and nature’s elements there were large sections of gravel with extremely large rocks strewn about the road.  We had about 60 miles through this preserve and the beginning part was slow moving.  We were both a bit worried – me more so – about the car’s tires and their sustainability on such inconsistent roads.  I had a moment where I wished we had four wheel drive.   I tried to enjoy the scenery of thousands of small Joshua Trees.  Some sections showed signs again of fires – but for the most part the trees seemed to be thriving.  Facing the direction the wind blows their short arms on the long trunks with sturdy spikes made me wonder what and how the wood was harvested.  I did some reading and learned that the myth behind the name, derived from the Mormons who settled out west and called the tree “Josh” from the bible given his “outstretched arms.”  The trees, when grown in the right climate, flower – which is not as common.  The leaves can be used for baskets or sandal making by the native people who lived in these deserts, along with roasting the seeds and flower buds for food.  It was helped to learn a bit about the tree before visiting the park tomorrow.  Back to the drive…we made it through with about a quarter tank of gas left and pulled into the first station we saw.  This was an old station with pumps that needed to be unlocked, with no digital screens.  There were dials that turned to indicate how much gas we purchased – and we needed to pay inside (not at the pump).  It was nice to be transported back into time. 

So, upon reaching out hotel it was late in the afternoon – we settled in and made our way to the tramway.  This is a very special sight to see.  It is a two and a half mile climb with the tram, passing over five towers.  The towers we learned are American made and the cables were Swiss made.  The tram has a rotating floor base the only one of its kind in the US.  The ride takes about 15 minutes – given the extreme height you climb over 3.5 thousand feet in elevation – it is described as going from two totally different climate zones like Mexico to Alaska.  At the base of the tram the temperatures measured around 106 degrees, at the top it was 76 degrees.  Cool as a cucumber.  The tram releases you into what felt like a truly magical place, the San Jacinto State Park.  Given the appreciated shift in temperature and the tall Jeffrey Pines you forget the desert is below.  We ventured out to a lovely natural path trail that was just about a mile long for a look around the park.  Oh – how splendid it was.  The best part was being able to smell the delicious Jeffrey Pines that have a distinctive butterscotch smell.  My mouth started to water for a Werther’s butterscotch candy – the trees were delightful to engage with and I appreciated using my sense of smell to take in the environment.   I did not know what to expect at the top of the tram ride – so this nature’s paradise was a welcomed treat.  We eventually made our way back to the tram for a dynamic ride down – the conductor played music, songs like “Sweet Caroline.”  It seemed everyone knew the lyrics and so we were all (about 30 people) singing along and dancing as the tram descended back into the hot desert land below.  I was laughing – what a joyful celebration of strangers.  Obi and I drove into the downtown area for dinner and stumbled upon a street fair.  We decided to sample the options at the fair devouring a falafel salad, tamales and a dish similar to Arepas.  We clapped and cheered for a group of street performers who were showing us their break-dancing skills.    Well folks – we have one more day before we head home on Saturday from LA.  Tomorrow we plan to drive through Joshua Tree and not melt into the hot earth.     

Zion – Day 5

I’m overlooking – in the distance the Las Vegas airport – from our Paris hotel room. The Eiffel towers stands just on the other side of these walls – a replica of the original. At first I was less pleased with the view of air-conditioning units and the soft rumble of a plane landing or taking off but honestly, it’s a sense of calm compared to what lies just below us on the casino floor or out on the strip. Being from NYC – “the city” – I had expected to handle bright lights, crowds of people, slot machines and Corona beer with limes everywhere – but maybe I underestimated what Vegas had to offer. I was utterly taken back by the sheer size of the hotels, casinos and general environment. Obi and I spent a few hours walking around yesterday so that I could see what it’s all about. Going in and out of the the Paris Las Vegas into the Bellagio and then Caesar’s Palace – is like a true odyssey. The whole network of pedestrian traffic shuttles you and in out of these hotels and casinos coxing you with every bit of energy to gamble or spend money. Pedestrians walk over pedestrian bridges so you have no choice but to go in and out of the hotels. There is hardly a surface area without an advertisement – you are inundated with ads for food (mostly steaks and burgers), alcohol, naked people (mostly women), gambling, and so much high end designer clothing. Vegas is certainly the place to spend money, and lot’s of it if you were so inclined. Obi bought a Gatorade from a cafe on the casino floor paying nearly four times as much for one, as from the gas station just outside the strip. The casino ceilings are painted with blue skies, clocks are absent and the restaurants serve breakfast 24 hours a day so it’s easy to lose any sense of time. Money is thrown away like trash – thoughtless and constant. While eating dinner we heard a few loud group cheers from deep inside the casino floor – they probably beat the odds and actually won something. I did have the chance to see the famous Bellagio water fountain show – we happened to be walking by when the first one was scheduled to begin, noticing people gathering with their cameras in hand. Water propels so high in the sky and with a breeze blowing there were multiple times we were sprayed – ah freshly chlorinated water all over me – haha, yes it was hot outside, very hot and the droplets were refreshing but who knows what is in that water. As per a recommendation from a dear colleague and friend from work – we booked tickets to visit the Neon Museum. This is not the typical show one might expect when visiting Vegas – but well worth the tour. We had a nighttime guided tour – so that we could see the historical neon signs restored and lit up in all their glory. The museum entrance is inspired by one of the oldest signs they have in their boneyard collection – like a concha (shell in Spanish). The tour walks you through their boneyard to see signs that have been donated to the NFP museum. Most of the signs are in their “resting place” – waiting to be restored or repurposed for parts. Historical landmark signs are lit up – bright and glowing. One of their featured signs was, Moulin Rouge, which was one of the first signs designed by a woman – using her original font for the lettering. Moulin Rouge was also first racially integrated club in Vegas which set the course for all clubs and casinos to come. I also found the old Sassy Sally sign to be interesting given the subliminal messaging they used turning their “s” in a subtle dollar signs – for the early 1930’s this was groundbreaking. We learned about the process for making neon mixing the gasses neon and argon together to make different colors – and the glass blowing technique to shape the tubes. They also had a Hard Rock Cafe sign which they raised $350,000 to restore to a working condition. Being so close to these relics also gave you a sense of size – these signs are huge! When you see them mounted on a building it’s not as obvious – or noticeable – how large they are – but here laying on the ground you can truly feel their gerth. If you were interested you could Google the Neon Museum and using the satellite view – see the original skull used for the Treasure Island casino (this casino is now just called TI because they found too many families were coming with their kids and the adults weren’t gambling enough – so they changed the name to discourage parents from bringing their children). The fiberglass skull is fragile and so they have to display it laying down – the skull can be see staring right up at you through the satellite image – very fun! Try it. Upon leaving the North Rim of the GC – I was wondering about and feeling upset imagining I may never see such a beautiful place again. I was comforted by the idea that we may return one day in our older age – like many of the people we saw for another visit. Leaving Vegas will not induce these feelings – I don’t have any hesitation about leaving and not never returning.

I do want to end this post though with my most memorable experience of the day – hiking to the TOP of Angel’s Landing. Yes – the Franimal was in her truest form this morning. She woke up at 5 am – it was dark outside and cool. After a quick morning routine she was out the door and power walking her way to Zion for their first shuttle of the day. She was heading back to Angel’s Landing for revenge – a moment to conquer the summit. Despite her efforts to catch the first shuttle there were many people already on line and so she caught the forth shuttle which only put her 10 minutes behind schedule. Most of the folks there at such an early hour were headed to two places, Angel’s Landing and the Narrows. Items like wooden walking sticks and water boots made it easy to distinguish between the two groups. She exited stop six – waited to use the restroom once more and started her march. She knew that most of the folks ahead of her would be passed – with her quick gate and steady breathing. As she mentioned in her post yesterday – this hike is labeled as streanouse and expected to take about four hours to complete. Beginning phase one she found a very strong rhythm in her step and passed each person in her way. Often needing to mutter politely “on your left” or “on your right” so as to not startle the hikers on their way. The path on the switchbacks is narrow and at some points with a deep drop so you need to be mindful of the safety of those around you while passing. She passed folks who she’d see board the first shuttle – when this happened it was hard to hide the grin across her face. She completed phase one in 22 minutes and practically skipped through the transition phase along the back of the mountain to the second set of switchbacks, phase three. There was not a moment to stop and take a photo – being the second visit in 24 hours – she had already taken her pictures the first day. The was a revenge hike and so only one thing mattered – reaching the top as fast as she could. Step, puff, lunge, step puff lunge, her pattern repeated until the final set of very tight switchbacks was completed and she stood at Scout’s Pavillion by the 34 minute. A quick glance at her watch, some sips of water from the camel pack and a moment to bang out the sand from her shoe treads and phase three was initiated, the “chains.” Without even stopping to look down at the drop – which is deadly – she grabbed hold of the first link and began her march. Now this section is tricky for many reasons – most obviously the danger factor. It is dangerous – very (Obi did share with me upon my safe return that since the year 2000, 13 people have died on this trail). But less obviously you are truly working together with other people – given the nature of the “one way street” you need to “dance” with folks going up and down and notice their own coordination, balance, fear, grit. The Franimal had to slow her pace at times given the father and two sons ahead – but when she reached a landing of sorts it was a good opportunity to pass. It was at this moment she found herself in front of a woman – who she soon learned their name, Kendra. Kendra struck up a conversation, asking about the trail shoes she had on (Solomon’s – the best!). Kendra and The Franimal became fast friends – and like the lyrics of a song Obi and I listened to “From strangers to friends” we were chatting for the rest of the hike. We ended up behind a couple who was heading up with a steady pace and so we made our way to the summit together. There was only more section along this incredibly steep route where the Franimal actually questioned her own safety passing over a very narrow bridge like pass with only a chain to hold. The path was narrow enough for two human- feet and a drop on both sides. That moment was truly intense – but again, with such a laser focus – there was hardly a moment to imagine what could happen. We talked about how when reaching the summit we would snap a quick picture and power our way down. We both did not want to get stuck waiting for hundreds of people coming up given it’s so tough to navigate the chains with two way traffic. I attached below the quick photo taken with a cell phone of the stunning valley below. The sun was behind us – offering her light to the land. When the Franimal took the final step to the summit – she felt a heavy sense of vindication and accomplishment – having reached the top in about an hour and 10 minutes. A bird call to celebrate was needed and a roar to leave her mark. She applauded the other folks you made it there as well – offering a sense of cheer and community amongst this group if wild travelers. A mentioned – we took a few photos and the Franimal was ready to descend. We were determined to make our way down and so as a pair it was easier to weave in an out of groups that were heading up. I should mention that as we headed up only one couple passed us on their way down. So I had to imagine that Kendra and I were the next set of people making their way down for the day which meant that everytime we passed a group of people they asked us, “How much longer?” with a look of desperation in their eyes, or “You’re done already – wow, your fast. Is it scarier as you go?” or “Are there more chains?” or “Is the top crowded?” We answered each one with a positive cheer, accurate information and dispelled any myths folks might’ve had. Down, down, down we went and before we knew it – we had reached Scout’s Pavillion and headed to the switchbacks. The Franimal completed her hike in exactly 2 hours and 4 minutes – ha! Her truest beastly self came out – determined, unphased and passionate.

Obi and I listened to an interested podcast from the TED interview, driving from Zion to Vegas – it was about the idea of grit: perseverance and passion over a long period of time. The psychologist Angela Duckworth spoke about how she came to understand what makes someone successful – her conclusion, grit (be mindful I am summarizing greatly here). Grit is a stronger factor in determining your success in life than your IQ. The perseverance and passion over a long period of time – can it be taught? Is it learned? Are you born with it? What about the circumstances a person faces and how does this impact their ability to demonstrate true grit? We listened and wondered about these questions – and I couldn’t help but think about my students and the children and teachers I have worked with over the years. Those who demonstrated grit – and those who struggled to – and why. I also couldn’t help but wonder about the Franimal and the range she felt not completing Angel’s Landing the day prior and what drove her to feel such a strong need to go back for a second time – to summit the mountain, and complete what she had started. Why couldn’t she be satisfied with almost getting there? Is her determination wild, reckless and uncensored? Is it dedication? Is is passion and perseverance? Is it grit?

Zion – Day 4

Today began with an early start – though we were held up waiting a bit longer than planned for the Springdale shuttle to the Zion entrance. Upon arriving to the entrance of the park, we spoke with the gear rental folks in hopes of getting boots and neoprene socks for the walk along the Narrows. The sky was a bit cloudy and there was still a flood watch in effect and their chart outfront indicated “probable” for a flashflood. While I was probably more interested in this watery adventure than Obi – we both agreed entering a narrow canyon with a flood watch would not be wise. So – instead we headed towards our back-up option, Angel’s Landing. Now, this hike it under the “strenouse” category and the description clearly warns people who are afraid of heights to avoid it. The hike consists of three phases (we decided to call each section of the hike a phases – this is not how it’s described by the park) of very extreme switch backs, given you are hiking a total elevation gain of 1500 feet, starting at 0. This is steep, so switch backs are necessary and they are truly in the shape of a tight Z. Phase 1: switch backs from base to a 1/3 way up. Transition phase, walking along the back end of the mountain on a relatively flat path – shaded. Phase 2: switchbacks to Scout’s Pavillion another 1/3 way up. Phase 3: “the chains” scaling up rock to the summit. Upon reaching a section called Scout’s Pavillion, you begin the final phase up a very narrow section of the mountain using chains to hold on as you scale up rock. Upon hearing about this hike, I naturally was intrigued immediately but knew Obi would not be interested. However, when learning that our water adventure was not possible Obi suggested again we try Angel’s Landing. I had my doubts but we loaded the Zion shuttle. On the shuttle we had some more time to think and I noticed another hike option called the Sand Bench trail. Given Obi’s disposition on narrow peaks I thought we might want to shift plans instead of attempting Angel’s Landing. The description of the Sand Bench trail was moderate (given the 4 mile length) and sandy. We spoke with the park ranger about it who said not much other than we might see some horse apples – meaning horse poop. When we reached the trailhead we immediately turned around realizing it is totally flat, in sand and peppered with horse “apples” – this is where the horse rides go. Yup – no thanks we said. I guess it was Angel’s Landing after all. This was one stop up the road so we loaded the shuttle again. We were well loaded on water and still had some food-coop snacks in my pack, a quick stop in the bathroom and off we ventured. I spoke with two folks you had just completed the hike – mind you this was at 9:30 am – they were on the first shuttle and began at 6:30 am. The total hike time is about 4 hours – but it seems most people finished closer to around 3.5 hours. The folks we talked to said it was steep on the switchbacks but thrilling. I was ready – but the anecdotes from finishers left us both feeling more confident and ready to go. Off we went – up, and up and up. I set a steady pace trying to moderate my speed so that Obi and I were close. The sun had been hiding behind some clouds all morning, but as we began up, she shone in all her glory. I loaded up some sunscreen but the sweat came on fast. As I mentioned earlier – this was a steep incline in a short distance so you are huffing it north. We eventually caught up with a mom and daughter who set a pace for me – which in turn was a good pace for Obi. We shared some nice chit chat as we ascended. Our plan was to reach Scout’s Pavillion and see what the final phase actually looked like – then decide about going onward or turning back. The mother and daughter had a similar plan and so when the four of us completed the switch backs and took in the view of the pavillion – everyone decided to complete the final phase. We made a pact so support each other. We started at the first chain section (which we learned later on is the most scary given the slope of the mountain) – no sooner did we begin did the mom decide that she was not going forward. She quickly stopped and wanted to turn around so they waved goodbye and sent us along. Obi and I made it through the first chain section – but it was challenging. The chains are like a one way street – so if folks are coming down you have to wait until they pass. Waiting on a typical hiking trail is fine -you casually step aside and wait for the folks coming down to pass (down always has the right of way on an incline). Given the nature of this section, you are essentially crawling on rocks and holding chains – folks coming down are not that speedy (going down is also always more difficult than going up). My favorite mountaineering expression is, “Going up a mountain is optional, coming down is mandatory.” Waiting for people to pass while your adrenaline is going and the anticipation of what is to come is challenging and I started to feel a bit impatient – also starting to worry about Obi given I knew he was very far from his comfort level. After some stop and go action we passed through the tough part to the final plateau before the last ascent which would probably be another 25-30 minutes. According to my watch there were about 700 feet left to climb. It was at this point looking ahead at what is to come did Obi start to vocalize his doubts even more. Despite this, he made the heroic choice to push on – but, the start of this section has a small drop and it was at this moment Obi said “No.” He was done – his nerves were shot. It was clear we would abandon the plan and instead make out way back to the Pavillion and reassess our next step. Before heading back down though we took some pictures of the view we had. Angel’s Landing is a high point in the middle of the valley/canon and so you can see quite far with wild and free mountains along the sides. The experience being this high is thrilling and I was truly proud of what Obi managed to accomplish. After taking in the view, we knew going down was not an option. So…this meant we needed to go back down the chains we had just climbed. We are both tall therefore, holding the chins at certain points is tough because you are leaning down, fighting against gravity and watching your footing on ribbed rock. We did a combination of standing and maneuvering on our butts along the steep parts. We reached the main pavillion for a high five – and deep breath. There was a lot to process in that moment – given everything we just experienced. We had heard from another hiker that the trail going in the opposite direction from Angel’s landing is very nice and not nearly as intense. So, we ventured along that trail for about 20 minutes to a view spot for a second granola bar, some water and a few more deep breaths and processing time. Eventually we started the descent – and talked about best “going down” practices – body positioning, arm movement, toes and quad strain. All features of a decent – and the most important mantra for going down that “every step counts.” Going down is when your body is tired and so it’s easy to miss-step. Intentionality and awareness are key so a decent. Shade and a pleasant breeze were guests on our walk back down which helped after getting so hot. We reached the bus station pretty quickly and it was clear from the look in Obi’s eyes that he was done and ready to go home. We took the shuttle back to the visitor’s center to catch the bus home. The Franimal in me was having some feelings about being done for the day – she was still ready for more. Obi headed back and I stayed to complete one more trail I had read about in the guide. Not before my second nose bleed though – yes, last night after dinner I got a nose bleed and then again today. My nose dried out at the canyon due to the elevation. I stood inside the bathroom stall using toilet paper to help it stop and finally it did. I walked back into the park with our pass and made my way to the trail head. Oy – only to discover this trail was closed due to damage caused by the flash floods from 10 days prior. Admittedly this was disappointing for me – but I decided instead to stick my feet in the cool river. After some plashing around and playing in the water – I walked home through town and stopped at some local shops. It was nearly 3 in the afternoon – there had been no rain yet (so we could have done the water walk) – and the sun was shining brightly. I showered and we had a relaxing afternoon and evening together. Our night ended with dinner at a local cafe and a scoop of ice-cream. Eating ice-cream in 96 degree weather is entraining because it’s melting faster than you can eat it. We both got sugar cones and so there was no place for the drip and down it came. We were laughing and trying our best to eat it quickly – but our efforts were in vain. I had ice-cream along my chin and legs, hands were covered and Obi had to throw his out, as it was nearly impossible to eat. It was a moment to relive what eating ice-cream as a child is like. So messy and yet, so much fun.

The photos are courtesy of Obi – thank you!

Tomorrow we are heading to Vegas for one night – but not before the Franimal completes the Angel’s Landing. Yes, she’s going back to finish what she started.

Angel’s Landing Summit
The valley, can you see the bus on the road and the winding trails?
The switchbacks from phase 1.

Zion – Day 3

I endured a restless night of sleep (during which I spent most of the evening awake imagining rain was falling heavily outside only to finally look out the window at 3:33 am to see no rain but a dry footpath). In my tired state, my imagination led me to believe the sound of wind was rain. Obviously, wind in the GC sounds like rain, oy. Needless to say, I did not get much rest last night but snuck out early in the morning to catch my first GC sunrise. The wind was still howling so I threw on my jumper to locate my perch. I scouted the location earlier with Obi, so I knew where I was headed. I saw a few other folks with their thermos in hand, tripod and camera also scaling up some small rock outcrops for the perfect pic. I was early and so I took a moment to stretch waiting for the first dawn of light to peer over the horizon of trees set on the canyon rim. My eyes were intensely focused on the tree line – and it almost seemed like the birds and squirrels (who chirp a lot here) also knew what was about to happen. It was in the exact moment the sun appeared did I notice the birds calling to each other. They too were waiting for the sun to rise. The sun is certainly stunning over the canyon, the contrast of color is striking between the fiery reds, yellows and pinks to the brown, greens and gray of the stone – but what I found most appealing was the impact the sun had on the coloring of the rock and canyon walls. The walls came alive with sunlight and suddenly shadows appeared while other sections beamed. Maybe today would be a day with less smoky haze I wondered – but knew I would need to say goodbye. Watching the sun, rise in silence was my moment o give thanks and say farewell to a place that will never be forgotten.

Obi and I decided to have a quick breakfast before heading to Zion National Park. The drive was scheduled to be just under three hours. It was a surprise to use to see the route we planned to take actually brought us through the eastern entrance of the park through to Springdale where were were staying. Along the drive Obi and I played our favorite alphabet game (which he won this round) and nearly finished the podcast we began two days earlier. I also needed to make some calls to Priceline and Budget closing up the payments for the car we never received – oy. When we entered the town of Kanab, Utah, Obi suggested I search for electronic stores in search of aquiring a new camera battery. It must have been some small kind of miricale but just as I type the word, electronic…I look up to see the sign for an old “Foto Shop” – advertising camera repairs, camera parts and old cameras. We pulled over and walked in – and to my absolute delight they had one battery that fit my camera and one charger – OY MY – I was thrilled. The sales woman could sense my excitement and celebrated with me as we cut open the packaging, paid and ran to the car to begin charging it. It was perfect timing, about 20 minutes later we were at the eastern gate for Zion and immediately in front of what is referred to as the “Checkerboard Mesa.” The unusual patterns of rock formation are a result of two forms of weathering, cross-bedding from the ancient sand dunes the vertical line caused by the expansion and contraction of the sandstone caused by temperature changes. Not only does this Mesa have what seems like a grid like appearance given the curvature and movement of the sandstone there are perfectly symmetrical waves washing over the face giving the structure movement and lightness. What a great math problem this would be trying to imagine what the area of each square is when not all the angles are 90 degrees. Unlike many of the canyon structures which feel block like and heavy in their cube forms – this part of the park is almost dizzying given how many curves surround you. When you stand up at the base turning around in a circle your eyes are drawn upward following each layer to the sky. Imagining these structures as timeless pieces of earth is not realistic because when you look closely you can see how soft the sandstone is by reaching to your feet and collecting sand that has errored away. If you rubbed long enough the rock starts to crumble and you can expeeince what it’s like to actually “make” sand. It is in these moments you need to remind yourself of the presence of time and that in the moment you stand there looking at these monuments – in the next moment something about it will have changed and it’s never going to be the same.

Obi and I ventured further with the goal of getting to our lodging to check in – so as we drove onward the eastern entrance takes you through a mile long tunnel – the darkest tunnel I have experienced with no internal lights but from the car ahead of you and some structural cut outs for a burst of sun to shine through. The tunnel passes through a mountain – another engineering feat for sure! After a quick stop at the bed and breakfast and an informative chat with the inn keeper, we made our way back to Zion for some exploring. This part of Zion does not allow cars in, so you gain access with a free hop on and hop off shuttle. We decided to explore the Emerald pools (which were fun to reach, but green in color:) taking the middle route up to the upper pool and back down through the lower loop. These hikes were short in distance but nice to explore given the linking water pools. We had debated doing a famous hike through the Narrows – where you rent water boots with neoprene socks and a walking stick to wade through the shallow river through canyon walls. A friend mentioned doing this – and upon getting to the park it was clear that during the hot summer months this is the hike to do! The further up the river you walk, the narrower the canyon walls become. Given the time of the day (late afternoon) we decided to hold off on doing this hike – given how much time you need to explore and instead completed the final walk of the day along the river bed. The weather is a bit up in the air tomorrow and it might rain in the afternoon, so when we get to the park in the morning we’ll make a game time decision as to if we want to walk the Narrows or hike Angels Peak (this is a very steep hike with a view of the canyon – you know this is calling to the Franimal). However I have never hiked through water so I am also eager to try this. We also want to drive back to the eastern entrance to explore the structures we drove through earlier. A lot will depend on the weather. I need a good night’s rest tonight. There is a lot to do tomorrow.

I will say having my camera back was a true joy and I took full advantage of using the different lens – to see far and close. I tried hard to capture grand gestures like the wild rush of sandstone sweeping across the face of the mountains and the delicate eyes of a small blue dragonfly lightly landing on a blade of grass.

Grand Canyon North Rim – Day 2

There was no Wifi at the Grand Canyon…so the first two entries were written while traveling and posted two days later.

The Franimal and Obi ventured out early this morning for a full day of hiking and vista viewpoints.  We arrived back to the cabin with sunscreen dripping down from the back of my knees, ankles shaded black from the dirt and so many scratches on my legs.  Our day started with a drive out to Point Imperial where we met up with the start of a trail called the Ken Patrick. We started hiking after eating half of the breakfast burrito we bought from the local ‘deli’ – while they were warm, unfortunately a bit dry for our liking.  We ate a few bites to put something in our stomach and off we went.  We were complexly alone for the entire trail – which hugged the rim of the canyon.  The trail was exactly what I was hoping for an arch along the edge with a view of the canyon the whole time.  We were walking through waist high bushes at certain points that were thorny – Obi is more strategic as he walks, actually making a point to avoid the extended branches. I on the other hand plow forward without a care as to what’s in my way.  The thorns had a field day with my legs – leaving me with countless red scratches hash-tagging me from top to bottom.  All worth the views and the journey – we trekked along in the early morning cool air despite the sun over-head.  The temperature was perfect for a hike.  We rationed our water as we went, knowing there were no more water stations for the rest of the day.  Our plan was to hike along this trail first, finish breakfast and then head further out along the Walhalla Plateau with the car to additional trails and look out points.  Obi and I enjoyed a few prime photo opportunities with our trusty cell phone cameras to capture a few memorable shots.  We each posed on this rock outcrop shaping our figures as dark silhouettes with the canyon backdrop, arms akimbo proud and powerful.  There were many moments today where I just stopped and looked out at the view to appreciate the simplicity of its presences and beauty.   I should add though that we met many folks today that were disappointed with the view given how hazy it was.  The rumor is that the canyon is filled with smoke from the fires that had recently come to pass in Arizona.  It’s hard to comprehend given how much smoke there was – but it did obstruct the view.  I was not disappointed in the slightest because despite this ‘overcast’ effect – the south rim was actually just barely visible in the way distance and we even caught a spot where we saw the river flowing.  I also adopted the strategy of looking closely for an extended period of time – this allowed my eyes to adjust and the more I looked, the more I saw.  Through the smoky fog I could make out ridges and ripples in the stone.  I could see broken boulders hanging on the edge about to tumble to unknown depths.  I could see different colored sections of rock signifying the layers of time.  I could imagine the fossils gorged in the stone from water creatures and plants.  I could hear the heavy buzz of a bird’s flight past our heads and I could see the raven perched on a ridge no human will probably ever explore.  The higher elevations of the north side of the canyon has many land masses that look like islands.  The higher elevation actually causes greater erosion from the increased snow fall that comes in the winter.  This erosion forces cracks into the rock and pushes and prods causing the rock formations to change over time – in a different way that the southern rim.  As a result along the northern rim – these islands and tooth like structures are dynamic and inviting.  Sometimes we were hiking such a distance that we had the chance to see one island from various perspectives, changing the way it appeared.  One of the best moments during our hiking was heading out to Roosevelt Point – I had missed a turn off on the short trail but Obi spotted something.  In a flash I jumped forward and noticed a trail leading to a ridge lookout point.  In was a short and significant drop down and then immediately up to reach the edge. At the edge the stone was cracked which gave the illusion that with one more step the giant bolder would give out from underneath you.  In that moment it’s easy to feel scared – to doubt the sturdiness of the stone and your heart races a little.  There are no metal fences to keep you safe – just the stone and the sheer drop into the abyss.  But it is these moments I feel my most brave – I venture out to sit down and look around – to feel the size of my smallness in such greatness.  It is in these moments I feel truly alive.  Then I glance back and see the look on Obi’s face – so eventually, I retreat to safer spaces and settle into the shade for a moment of silence. 

Our final destination point for today was a Cliff Spring trial, a short ½ mile walk down to a canyon fresh water spring.  I had been looking forward to soaking my hot and dirty feet – and I quickened the pace despite the heat at its hottest for the day.  The earth was dry but as we approached the overhanging rock we started to notice fresh fern like plants and green grass spawning upwards from the base of the overhang.  While there were no puddles for me to frolic in, bright green moss covered large sections through which water drops gracefully fell to help grow the plants which seemed out of place in the dry desert climate.  I placed my head under a steady drip and could feel each drop cool my scalp and neck.  The water felt nice as we trekked upwards again back to the car and when the breeze blew past it cooled the water.  The heat was heavy though and by the time we reached the car – my hair had dried up. 

Our night ended with a lightning storm over the canyon – we had settled into the Adirondack chairs at the lodge overlooking the view.  When we heard the rumble of thunder and then the jolt of lightening.  Dynamic energy rushed through the crowd of people huddled under the lodge’s narrow lip from the roof.  With each strike an applause broke through and some shrills.  The wind was strong and blowing sand into our eyes.  The temperature dropped significantly and it felt cold, very cold.  We hunkered outside for some time and then retreated into the lodge for the heavy rain drops to pass.  And just like most summer storms it left as quickly as it came. 

Update on the camera battery – I asked about four people today who had Cannon cameras for a battery loan – they were all willing but sadly their batteries were too big.  New models maybe?  I tried – one woman took my email so that she could email the pictures she took from the day.  What a kind gesture. 

Well tomorrow I will be waking up just before 5 am to catch the sunrise over the canyon.  I can’t wait. Obi and I are driving to Zion National Park tomorrow – the heat will be extreme – bring it on.

Grand Canyon North Rim – Day 1

Obi asked, “Will the Franimal include crying at the site of the Grand Canyon in her blog?”

“Yes” she replied.

Before I go on, I should back up a bit.  Obi and I flew from NY Friday afternoon with a mostly uneventful trip aside from a delay in Phoenix boarding the puddle hopper to Flagstaff.  We arrived in Flagstaff later than expected at 9:30 pm, a little over an hour later – to find all the car rentals closed.  They had closed at 4 pm so one way or another we were not getting our car.   We wandered outside to the taxi stand to find one taxi who graciously offered to come back after dropping off his schedule trip to bring us to the hotel.  Before we took the taxi – I called Budget to inquire about our car and was informed that they gave the car away and were most likely not going to have a car for us.  We had no choice but to return in the morning and see what happens.  Being the intrepid travelers that we are, we did book another car (nearly twice as expensive) from Hertz just in case.  We car pooled from the airport with another lone traveler whose plane was also delayed and was stranded sans automobile.  The three of us check in to a hotel that sadly was very run down and – felt dirty.  The internet can be so deceptive when you look at pictures.  Thankfully it was only a one night stay for us and I quilted the floor with unused bedding throws and towels for me to hop to and from so that I could avoid the carpet.  I used a handy dandy travel clothing line that was gifted to me (I brought it along to hang our sweaty hiking clothes because I knew it would be H.O.T.) to pinch the blinds together so that we could get some rest.  We woke up to the sun shining its way through the tiny holes in the vinyl blinds.  The effect seemed like a sun constellation with the small holes of light and the dark inside room.  I could almost make out the big dipper.  I was pretty set on leaving as soon as possible so after a quick rinse and pack –up we scrounged up a few things for breakfast like brown bananas, a small yoghurt and Obi delighted in a “homemade” Belgium waffle.  We opted for a Lyft back to the airport.  As suspected Budget did in fact not have a car for us so we took a few steps so the left to Hertz and got a car.  Yahoo – we were heading out at last! 

The drive from Flagstaff to the North Rim was just under 4 hours according to Google – mostly along a two lane road with designated space for passing the vehicle in front of you.  Obi is steady and calm in the car – often offering me to drive but my excuse is that I am not on the insurance so I don’t try.  I know I should practice – but the fast pace of a highway intimidates me.   About 20 minutes into the drive the car beeps and alerts us to a “system malfunction” – we quickly pull over and can feel the heavy jolt of air as fast cars wiz past us.  The cars tells us to look at the owner’s manual which we do, and see that the sensor used to automatically activate the brakes (if we get too close to another object) does not work.  It is a driver’s assistance feature not an essential feature like actually having brakes that operate – so we continue on.  I did call Hertz to inform them – they said it’s a common problem.   Along the way we passed many Navajo jewelry stands  – wooden shed like structures with built in display tables where we can see many crafts laid out for purchase.

The landscape is what kept my attention though.  Shape shifting land with each mile.  At first a flat yellow sand drenched the ground.  Far reaching yellow earth that eventually starts to elevate from the ground and bold hills emerge, flowing like bubbles from one to the next.  Perfectly rounded arcs of a black rock substance.  Given the smooth and round edge one might think they were soft and could almost blow away with a strong gust of wind.  But then suddenly you can see tire tracks up and down along the edges of many – a four wheel playground/track?  The bubbles turn back into flat rock now turning redder with each mile.  Hardly a tree insight and barely a small bush for any natural shade.  The air was extremely hot, temperatures reached 111 degrees F in areas where we were and the sun was surely broiling the earth.  The rocks at certain points glistened like gems when a ray caught its jagged edge.  As we ventured onward canyon like structures started to appear – as if from thick air.  The air did not feel thin, it felt thick.  The mini canyons joyfully teased you for what was to come.  The final part of our drive was through a national forest.  From what I could tell, and the messages from Smoky the Bear – the fire warning was high.  The forest looked bone dry and the dominant species were evergreens.  Pines pined with their green needles.  Black seared tree bases were everywhere signs of a past fire.  Some trees had been burned leaving only the pointy remains of a charcoal like substance.  At this point in the drive with about 45 minutes to go Obi put on a pod cast from Sam Harris.  We listened to an interview about the impact of food, particularly the animal meat industry has on global warming.  The discussion focused on our economy, the market for meat, the importance of plant based meat substitutes and cultured grown meat and the immunity we are developing to antibiotics (given the percentage of antibiotics given to animals).  All topics that were hard to ignore seeing the charred forest floor, the heard of bison we drive past (yes – so splendid to see) and the menu options at the lodge restaurant (they had a burger mixed with elk, wild board, beef, Wagyu beef and bison, all mixed together!)… but alas I digress and am getting ahead of myself. 

We purchased an “America The Beautiful” pass for access to the National Parks and within a few miles of leaving the park entry point we pulled into the lodge, parked the car and made our way through the crowds to the lodge overlook. 

And just like that we laid our eyes on one of the Seven Wonders of the World. 

And just like that tear started to roll down my checks. 

And just like that I was at a loss for words. 

And just like that I realized again, what it meant to be a Wonder of the World.

Despite the hazy sky and smoky like air the sheer expansiveness and depth of this canyon is something hard to dream up.  Mother Nature has written a master piece here.  The layers of different rock in the cliffs, feel closely to the pages in a book.  With each layer telling the history of a time once lived, of a river that forced its way down and through billion year old igneous and metamorphic rock plates which over time widened and spread open the canyon.   The longer I stood there and from the various vantage points we walked, your eyes focus on new details and crevasses.  This is a Wonder you need to see, like really see so that you understand what it means.   The canyon is dripping with pride as it should – it is humbling to be at the foothold of such a massive hole, looking down inside what was once closed.  Seeing this Wonder is personal and there were moments where I almost didn’t want to look further and deeper in for fear of seeing something I shouldn’t.  The earth is sacred and some parts should be kept a secret, private and unknown – but the more you stand here looking out – the harder it is, to not inch your way closer and closer to the edge for just one more dizzying look into the belly of the beast. 

Obi and I ventured to a popular lookout point and I scrambled up some rock points a bit off trail.  These are the moments the Franimal comes crawling out, pulling me just a little higher and just a little further.  The ground is stable but it’s hard to ignore the feeling of falling.  Obi ventured as far as his comfort level could tolerate. The lookout points provided different angles from which you could see the canyon, and I wanted to see every single one.  

Our day ended with dinner at the lodge restaurant and a conservation with two park rangers about hiking options for tomorrow.  We also ventured out after each doing some writing to see the sun – set over the canyon rim.  While the clouds were ever present, the sun illuminated their shapes and painted them shades of pink, red and orange.  Obi and I were perched alone on a rock outcrop, wind in our hair, dust in our eyes and nose but a sight to never ever forget. 

I should add before I end this long post, about 1 and a half hours into our drive from Flagstaff I realized I forgot my camera battery and charger plugged into the hotel bathroom wall.   My own fault leaving with such haste.  I was instantly furious with myself and it felt like part of me was missing, like a left a small limb behind.  The reality of knowing I could not use my camera – expect for the one on my cell phone made me nauseous. As someone who enjoys greatly taking pictures of her adventures I was, am, gutted.  This was a real lesson in taking in the experience with only my eyes and not through a lens – but it doesn’t mean that tomorrow I am going to do whatever I can to borrow a battery for a few minutes so that I can snap a picture or two with my real camera.  We’ll see what the day will hold – I will surely let you know.  Oh, I did call the hotel and they found my things – fingers crossed – they will give my battery and charger to UPS who will ship it to our home in Brooklyn.  I also asked every general store we passed (not many) for a battery with no luck – maybe in Vegas I can buy one?  Oh my. 

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