Final Post – Pictures

As you can imagine – we are safely back in Brooklyn NY. The final two days (days 15 & 16) of our trip consisted of traveling by boat to Flam, boarded the famous Flam railway and ended with an express train to Oslo. We arrived in the evening around 10:30 pm to Oslo and stayed at the same hotel we began our Norway trip from. Our flight was Sunday evening shortly before 8 pm so we spent our last day (with beautiful weather) visiting two museums, the Norwegian Museum of Culture and History (a stunning open air museum with homes to explore) and the Fram museum focused on early polar exploration – so cool! We ended our final day with two scoops of ice-cream and then headed to the airport. We flew a newer (somewhat budget) airline, Norse Atlantic. The flight was perfectly well run and we even landed early in NYC. To recap my trip I’ve included my top ten pictures. Enjoy and thank you for reading – till next time.

Thank you Obi, my love,- for this incredible trip and photo credit to Obi for some of these pictures. The photos are in no particular order.

My uncle Christoph and I playing Sjoelbak outside our home in Quelkhorn.
My uncle Jens, aunt Brigitte and their son’s dog out for a walk in Quelkhorn.
The summit of Raudmelen and my new waterproof sneakers.
My dear friend and sister, Tjorven, her daughter Tabea and son Klaas learning how to take a picture.
Kissing the falls in Norway.
My handsome Obi.
Norway’s most perfect rainbow.
Sculpture by Gustav Vigeland, Oslo, Norway.
From the top of Raudmelen in Balestrand, Norway.
Textures and colors, the “beach” in Oslo, Norway.

Balestrand Day 14

Today’s post will focus on our hike – yes, Obi did another hike with me 🙂 I think we should start recording our hikes – so I have a clear record of his efforts! You know, the Franimal loves the mountains, Obi on the other hand could settle for a different kind of adventure. But – he is a dedicated partner and today – he persevered through a good climb. Yesterday we spoke with the local (and only) adventure group. They lead hikes, kayak and motor boat tours. I asked about good hiking options and it was recommended we climb to Raudmelen – 972 meters (3,189 ft) – from our starting point, we are at sea level – so we joyfully got to climb every single step. The trail begins from behind the local school – and winds first along a nature trail which is also used by the school children. I was dreaming out having space like this for a school – and how special it is for the children to have trails to play and run on during their school breaks. They even built a type of “tree” house structure to play in. So cool. Oh – I also should say that despite having rained for the last four days – the sun made an appearance today. We were incredibly lucky to have mostly some clouds, lot’s of sun and a few patches of rain. It was a perfect day for the hike. I don’t think Obi would have finished (or started) had it been raining when we began.

After exiting the nature trails (green, easy) we quickly picked up the blue (moderate) trail which leads you to some lookout points and then eventually the final red (challenging) trail marker to our summit. The green and blue trails are below the tree line – most of the trees were Birch wood – so the skinny white trunks made for a great color contrast to the vibrant green moss and wet firns. The trail was muddy at some points – given how much rain had fallen – but, as you can see from the photo below, must of the trail along the red/challenging route was laid with stones. I had read while preparing for the hike that many years ago sherpas were hired to build this trail and lay the stone “steps.”

What you see in the picture above is the start of the red trail, there are no trees and so we are immediately exposed to the elements. This picture provides you with a nice view of our summit up ahead – and the stones to get you there. The weather while sunny today provided us with mostly cloudy skies with sun patches and no rain. It’s such a treat to see the blue sky ahead. I packed our water bottle, cheese sandwiches (which I prepared from the hotel buffet breakfast), and two fruit bars from Germany. I also had a dry layer for Obi which included a new t-shirt, and long sleeve, and fresh socks if needed. Given the sharp incline of the trail – I (and Obi) start to sweat quickly. I regulate my breathing and cool my body with little tricks like rolling my shirt over my wrists to expose them to cool air. I cover my ears as the circulation to them is not great and I pump my legs in steady rhythm. Obi trails right behind me, following my every move. I carefully watch where I step to help inform his foot placement. When you hike, every step counts – EVERY step – so how and where you place your foot may seem like a small manner – but it is critical to a successful adventure. Obi sweats a lot and heavy – so I have officially given him the title of “summit changer” – he is learning to accept this hiking identity 🙂 as someone who has to change clothing at the summit. As we walked upwards we passed two small groups making their way also to the top. I always enjoy seeing other folks out on the trail – having their own adventure and enjoying what is to come. When we hit the red trail – while the photo above shows blue sky – about 200 meters further a heavy fog and rain cloud rolls in at the summit. We were about 200 meters shy of kissing the top – when the rain started to fall. Lightly at first – but then heavier and the wind picked up. Moments ago we could see all the way to the sea, and the town below – crystal clear. Now, we were hardly able to see 10 feet ahead of us. The fog was heavy and coated the top just as we arrived. The top was in the clouds – we were walking on clouds. I looked at Obi and given how drenched his two shirts were from sweat (soaked like you could wring them out) I knew our summit stay would be extremely brief. We snapped this photo – and took shelter.

Yes – shelter – a mini miracle indeed – at the summit is a hut available for hikers to stay. Inside was some old gear left behind, TP, a few beds with simple mattresses, shovels for the snow, a candle, and wood burning stove. It was warm and dry – so in a moment of great need – we sheltered in for a reset. Obi changed into dry top clothes which was a lifesaver – as he started to warm up quickly. There was a moment when I actually worried he was too cold – but thankfully I was prepared to get him ready for the dessent.

As we headed down – the fog, rain and wind passed just as readily as it arrived and low and behold….what do we see? A rainbow!

This was one of those rainbows where we could see the start and finish – and I imagined the forest gnomes running with their little feet and sacs to find the gold at either end. The wet air and sun created that natural phenomenon and the arch sprawled out in front of us framing the view of the valley below. We stood there for some time – enjoying the view and walked away, just as the rainbow faded. It felt special to see something so beautiful yet fleeting. On our way down we saw the folks we had passed and a few additional folks heading to the top. We encouraged them along and provided them with how much more time it would take to summit when they asked.

When we reached out hotel just about four hours later – we sat on our balcony – ate the cheese sandwiches and ate the view. Drank water and looked up at the climb we just accomplished. From out hotel room – we could see the summit – and honestly both felt proud.

I will end this post by saying that my mom spoke with Alexandria after her fall and despite the injury her spirits remain high. She loves her new very short haircut and seems to be glad she is back in her community working – and living with friends that understand her in most particular and special way I never will.

Tomorrow Obi and I will spend most of the day traveling back to Olso – we will in fact ride the famous Flam railway – one of (if not the steepest) mountain railways system in the world. Apparently people travel from all over to see it. We start our journey with a boat ride – transition to the Flam railway and then finally a speedier train to Oslo. We won’t get in until about 10:30 pm. We will spend our final night back at the same hotel we stayed in, in Oslo. We have nearly a full day in Oslo given our flight leaves Norway in the evening so we hope to have another mini adventure on Sunday before heading to the airport. Till then.

Oslo to Bergen Day 11, Bergen Day 12, Bergen to Balestrand Day 13

This afternoon I received a Whatsapp message from my mom and sister giving me hard time for not writing every day (as I have done on previous trips) – they had me laughing, joking around that I was in a pre-honeymoon. Very funny you two. Last night I would have written but Obi and I went to a spur of the moment concert, we heard Björk perform – live with a local string orchestra! Though, let me start from the beginning. Since leaving Oslo, it’s been raining, raining from morning till night. We learned from a crew member on our boat, that this has been the coldest summer in Norway’s history since that last 50 years. It’s been about 15 degrees colder than what they are used to (for this time of the year), and this happens to coincide with a lot of rain. While the rain is not great for city exploration it does wonders to the hundreds of waterfalls that extend from the fjords. Our journey from Oslo to Bergen took an entire day. The hotel we stayed provided us with a very hearty and delicious breakfast buffet to which we filled our stomachs and marched off to the train station. We boarded the train that should have been direct from Oslo to Bergen, however, there was track maintenance on the final leg from Voss to Bergen, so the many passengers needed to take a bus. The train ride was splendid passing along fjords and crystal blue water pools from gushing falls. It’s the kind of train ride you don’t want to end. The journey lasted about 8.5 hours – about an hour extra due to an accident on the road when we boarded the bus. The road was closed and all we could do was sit and wait. It’s a two lane road – one lane per direction with no where to go. We had a stunning view, podcasts (videos on Youtube for Obi), books to read and chocolate covered cashews so life was good. When we finally made it to Bergen – we trekked through the rain to our hotel which was nearby and settled in after eating at an Indian restaurant that was slightly off the main tourist strip.

During our full day adventure in Bergen, we started the day with a fjord cruise to Mostraumen. This was truly a lifetime travel highlight. We boarded a boat that was very crowded, given the time we arrived about 10 minutes before departure all the seats near the windows were occupied. I quickly did some reconisnacne and noticed we could hunker down outside at the top deck. A few other folks had also noticed this and so we all seemed quite pleased to have found seats under the only covering of the boat – again, it was raining from the moment we woke up – and so some overhead covering was critical. The boat departs Bergen and cruises along for an hour and a half before returning – so a total of three hours on the boat. Leaving Bergen felt just as thrilling as arriving because out on the water you have this splendid view of the land bursting with mountains and the valleys mostly covered with rich green evergreens but many of the valleys near the water’s edge are dotted with homes nestled in. Bergen is a tourist destination with old buildings – and those that are near the water’s edge are currently under construction because they seem to be shifting – askew. The city is working on raising them up and seems to be using traditional methods of construction as we could look inside to see the wooden beams as the floor – very different from the drywall and poured concrete I am used to seeing. I feel like a tourist in the city – but when you are on the water far from the city streets you somehow forget that you are visiting a place that is foreign and I feel immediately at home – the fjords given their natural composition welcome you in – the shapes of land stretch out and circle you leaving pools of deep ocean. Inside these ocean pools you have nearly 360 degree views of the land that dominates. When you look towards the land you see cliffs, covered with trees and dotted with what seem like homes of a brave human or a practical fisherman. It’s utterly delightful – and you want to take hundreds of photographs to capture it all so that you don’t forget. Despite the rain Obi and I stayed outside on the deck the whole trip. There was one point when we turned the bend of a fjord, and headed into what clearly was a rain downpour. The other’s retreated back to shelter but I was so compelled to stay where I was – alone for a few moments – only to quickly feel pools of water in my socks. Yes, I was soaked from my thighs to the tips of my toe nails. Despite how cold I was at the end of the ride, shivering vigorously – it was worth it. The boat ends it’s tour at a huge waterfall and given how the fall, falls – the boat backs up directly to the edge. This was a surprise to us and we were like kids in a candy shop – we were laughing so loud and almost screaming with glee – given how loud the falls were, pummeling down and splashing the boat. The water was white and foamy from how aggressive it fell – and truly had us spellbound. What a magical moment that was. On the return trip to Bergen we talked with our seat neighbors who said they came to Bergen from Poland to see Bjork perform – our ears perked up and we inquired more. She happened to be performing at the stage set up in the castle that was directly next to our hotel. We were thrilled – when we got back to the hotel later that afternoon, Obi bought us tickets – the concert was only for general admissions and standing. How cool – tickets to see Bjork perform – we were pumped. Obi has seen her perform and loves her music – I had never seen her perform so this was exciting for both of us.

I will say though that after exiting the boat – as I mentioned earlier I was soaking wet and finding it hard to get warm. We made our way to a few sports equipment stores and Obi bought me a waterproof pair of sneaker/shoes. After changing from my drenched socks into my backup pair and new shoes I felt alive again! We found our way to a shopping center with a public bathroom, and then ate the cheese sandwiches I made from our hotel breakfast. Warmed and fueled up – we decided to head towards the funicular which is a tram that takes you to the top of a mountain for some sightseeing. I was naturally very interested in hiking up – so Obi faced with a choice to tram it or walk it – hehehe – decided to walk with me, oh yes – he loves it! It was a steep walk – that took about 50 minutes to the top – and got us good and sweaty and a well earned beautiful view of Bergen. We took a different route down through an area fully covered in delicate green moss – soft to the touch – and drenched with water. Thankfully the rain stopped after we got off the boat so our afternoon and evening were drier. Obi noticed that from the moment we woke up to the moment we left for dinner – the lighting in Bergen had not changed. It remained grey and cloudy with the exact same coloring from morning till night – it wasn’t until we were at the concert around 9:45 pm did darkness appear.

Like I said the concert was truly next door – if we had not gone, we would’ve heard her singing from our hotel window. How glad we were to have been there – it was a small venue within the outdoor space of a castle/fort so a sense of intimacy was agreed upon – so when Björk performed Aurora I looked up at the grey cloudy sky, saw tree leaves that moved like cellulite and felt wind grace my naked eyes – tears welled up. I was moved by her voice, the sounds of the instruments – violin, chello, base – and the moment took hold of me.

So you see – this is why I couldn’t write last night – I was wrapped up in the moment. Unfortunately I went to bed crying for a different reason – I got word from my mom that my sister Alexandria who just went back to her community fell again, and this time split her chin open and needed stiches (she has barely recovered from her recent fall after breaking her nose). Her seizure activity has worsened over the years and her brain seems to be less and less responsive to medication. This has us worried – and I am utterly preoccupied by her well being and safety. And yet, somehow despite the difficulty she faces every day – the picture post hospital is one of her smiling and donning a new haircut. She is on my mind a lot right now.

I will end by sharing that today, Obi and I took a four hour ferry from Bergen to Balestrand, a small village further north in Norway. It’s been raining all day again, though that did not stop me from standing outside on the deck again for the whole trip taking in the journey. During this boat ride, I took far fewer photographs (taking the words from Björk who asked that her listeners refrain from pictures and just listen). Instead I looked out at the ocean and fjords and swooned… and was entertained by the tourists who came out every once and a while for a selfie or group photo. I considered doing a photo project of the tourists – selfie sticks, wet fleece jackets, new shoes, fancy cameras, wind swept hair does, snacks from the stand, face masks in their pockets and cigarette breaks – but instead, just watched. Our hotel is a historic sight and connects to Norway’s museum of tourism. The room we are staying in, is on the newly renovated side, but with a view we will never forget. If you could frame the view from our window, it would look like a postcard – it’s utterly perfect. And through the fog of the crestfallen mountains behind the wooden church and small homes is a waterfall – flowing thick with water into the valley. Once again grounding me into this earth.

These photos are courtesy Obi.

Beckoning fjords.
Soaked by the waterfall – and loving every moment.
View of Bergen.
The view from our hotel window in Balestrand- just before I finished this post the rain stopped and a small patch of blue emerged.

Quelkhorn Days 6 & 7, Kiel Days 8 & 9, Oslo Day 10

I am writing to you from Oslo, Norway – it’s nearly 9 pm and the sun is shining brightly. I might have just broken the sink in our hotel room, I needed to fill the sink and pushed the drain down – only to learn I am unable to pull it back up – oy. When Obi finishes showering I’ll call the front desk and confess – let’s see what they say. We’ve just had a glorious afternoon walking in the beautiful city of Oslo. We left Hamburg this morning after driving with my dear friend and her two children Sunday afternoon from Kiel to Hamburg. We decided to spend Sunday night in Hamburg at her parent’s house so that Monday’s trip to the airport to catch our morning flight would be easier. Staying in Kiel for a few nights with my friend, like a sister, and her family was splendid. We spent most of our time in their garden that spans nearly half a city block – it’s very long and wide – and they have put in many hours of work to create a space for relaxing, playing, and growing. They have a few plentiful fruit trees and a garden area in which we retrieved all of our evening veggies from, fresh cucumber, zucchini, arugula, onion, carrots and garlic. It’s like magic walking into their garden and harvesting incredible vegetables to enjoy. I was so happy to get to know her children (better) and spend time together going for long walks and talking. One day we also drove out to the beach for a walk in a Beech wood forest at the edge of the sea. I even darlinging jumped into the ocean for a cold and refreshing swim. While spending time on the sand, Obi had the idea to play a beach version of Bocce ball with stones. Very entertaining – complete with the odd types of throws and even a backwards throwing round. We won’t talk about who won – let’s just say I am much better with real bocce balls.

Before arriving in Kiel, Obi and I finished our days in Quelkhorn with my family. On Wednesday I had a chance to visit Bremen with my aunt. It was important for me, to, in some way revisit the stores we had frequented years ago as a child – with the help of my aunt we even found a chocolate shop that sells a most delicious truffles I still remember eating as a child. Bremen is also home to a special frozen cake served only in two flavors, strawberry or pineapple – this was my second time eating this cake and so I tried the pineapple – yum. Since we are on the topic of food, I should add that my uncle made his specialty – cheese fondue on our last night and while I loved every warm and gooey bite – so did Obi. It seemed he went bite for bite with my uncle who eats like a champ. Yes, it seems we are eating our way through Europe:)

During our last final full day in Quelkhorn, I decided to bike about 23 km (one way) to a garden which houses two of my favorite sculptures – in a town called Worpswede. There sits a buddha that laughs and a man pulling his hair in such a rage. I always was always spellbound – even as a child, by the juxtaposition of such joy and anger in these very old stone sculptress. They are below for reference. I rode my uncles new E-bike – the first time I ever sat on one. These bikes are heavy! Upon leaving I was worried about the time, and Obi said, “use the boost.” Despite the wind and long detour I needed to take given a road closure – I did not use the boost. Curious though, I did turn it on to see how it felt and immediately noticed the quick pace and ease – only to have the boost stop. I thought I was using it incorrectly, so I turned it off (as I did not really want to use it anyway) – but learned upon asking my aunt that when you are biking over 25 km per hour – the boost does not activate – these are for safety purposes as these bikes are not permitted to go any faster. Ha, that was a good laugh for me. The pace at which I was riding – was speedier than what the boost could do. So – I guessed the Franimal outboosted the boost?

On Friday after saying farewell to my family and vowing to return soon – we boarded a train to Hamburg and met my godmother and family. It had been many years since we last spent time together, therefore, talking about our lives and catching up felt very special. We ate lunch with her, her daughter and partner – and then walked along the Ulster river in Hamburg. Sailboats, paddle boarders and kayakers decorated the river complete with two sailing schools for children. We lost track of time and took some of the cake she had to go – and made a dash to the nearest train station to meet my friend. The first week of this trip – for me – has been truly about remembering a place in the world where I melt into happiness – and reconnecting with my family and friends who I have missed and longed to see after so many years. I did just that. Our week ahead in Norway, a place I have never visited, already feels different.

After a quick snack in our room this afternoon (and another smooth flight) we ventured into the city for a walk to the sculpture garden I had been informed by a few people to visit. If you ever find yourself in Oslo, I highly recommend a visit to the Vigeland Park, a park which features Gustav Vigeland’s most well known work. He was a Norwegian sculpture and wood carver who died in 1943. His work is featured in the park in bronze, granite and wrought iron. From the entrance we entered you first cross a bridge with bronze figures along each side. Each one featuring a human form in different pose. All of the figures in this park are nudes, and the body shapes and size vary along with the age of the person. His work features many children, couples and elderly people. As you walk along the bridge you are quickly taken hold by figures that seem reflective and lost in thought, while others are chaotic and many are sensual and loving. His figures are interconnected and dramatic at times with women embracing children almost as if their child was afraid, or two men held together by arms, legs and backs in an intimate and private moment. There are many sculptures with men and children in moments of admiration and teaching. Each one, and there are many figures, invite you to write a story. Along the way to the sculpture park it started to rain, we sheltered under some trees and waited for the clouds to pass – eventually gifting us bright sun casting rays of sharp light on the green bronze and stone. Obi and I spent some time walking and gazing. We ventured back towards our hotel for a shoe change (my right foot was hurting) and then made our way to the Oslo Opera House – another must see. This building is a tremendous architectural wonder – and designed so that you can walk up to the roof of the building and overlook the Oslo harbor and distant green islands. The Nordic sun was perfectly aligned with the sharp lines of concrete, metal and stone – which complimented the white and grey buildings surrounding the Opera House. When we reached the roof, overlooking the water we were lucky enough to hear a choir group sing two songs. Their voices were the perfect accompaniment to the surroundings and gave sound to what I was feeling. Sitting on the slanted roof of the Opera House with the sun gave me such a feeling of inner peace.

We ended out day at a vegan restaurant next to our hotel, a delicious blend of fresh veggies and rice. As we were sitting there I heard a familiar voice. I look up and behind Obi, ordering food was Woody Harrelson! Yes, the famous actor and his wife. I of course did not know his name, but I recognized his face and voice – Obi knew his name. It was too funny – I never see famous people (or at least I never recognize them) and there he was, about two feet from me ordering the same meal I had. We both thought that was pretty neat and ended our day with gelato – and yes, they had hazelnut, my favorite.

So, remember when I broke the sink…, I spoke with the front desk and they sent up someone to take a look. No sooner had the person some in the bathroom, was it fixed – it’s a push and release drain! So, when you close the drain, to stop water flowing, in order to release the drain or open it again, you push down and it pops up/out. It took him about 2 seconds to “fix” it – it was never broken or damaged we just did not even think it needed a simple push – as the quick fix. Ah, the European engineering does it again! I wonder if Woody would have figured that out:)

Tomorrow we take a train to Bergen, Norway.

Worpswede, joy
Worpswede, rage
Vigeland Park, Gustav Vigeland
Vigeland Park, Gustav Vigeland
Vigeland Park, Gustav Vigeland
Vigeland Park, Gustav Vigeland
Vigeland Park, Gustav Vigeland
Vigeland’s admirers

Zürich Day 3, Quelkhorn Days 4 & 5

Hello Again, It’s been a few days since since I have written – I have been spending time with my family in the evenings – going to bed late and getting up early. I am here in the place of my childhood adventures in Germany. A truly special place for me. My uncles and aunts live in a small country town called Quelkhorn, near Fischerhude. My mother for as long as I can remember took us, her four children, to Germany for the summer – to a part of the country surrounded by wheat, corn and sunflower fields. Scattered in the fields are pastures for cows and horses – and if you are lucky pigs, goats and sheep. I learned from my mother’s brother, that Fischerhude, less than 100 years ago was covered by water – and used as the main eel source for Bremen (the nearest major city). Yes eels – were rampant and caught, though small in size based on the photos I looked at- it was a major source of revenue for the town. It was decided around 1940 to drain the area as a living space, to build homes and farm. A few small canals or thick streams remain throughout the town and I already started to imagine the eels swimming along. Being here – brings me a kind of inner peace that it hard to describe. I am immediately brought back to my childhood days, running barefoot through the hay fields and climbing the large hay rolls – hoping the dried straw would not poke my feet too hard. Exploring the corn fields and sometimes sneaking corn right off the stalk to chew the sweet kernels – and biking to our favorite ice-cream shop and getting my (still to this day) favorite flavor, hazelnut. Using the money we had to buy chocolate Kinder eggs (with small toys inside) and sleeping in the barn attics with friends. In the surrounding area of our house, is the Moore – where, what we call peat moss was harvested. This is a protected area, given how special the peat moss is. This was harvested, buy cutting bricks of peat moss from the earth and drying them in pyramid type structures to sell for heating in homes, to get the bricks out of the Moore the farmers laed railway tracks and pushed carts out from the Moore to the road, then loaded to other transpiration methods. The peat moss retains heat well when it’s dried – so when walking through the Moore touching the ground you can feel the heat radiating and your feet are suddenly very warn. It’s pure beauty and while walking there with my uncle we spotted a fox, smelled the peat moss and evergreens and caught the sun draping the dried grass and moss.

I should rewind a bit though – I left you last still in Zürich – with plans to kayak out into the lake. Unfortunately for me, I texted the owner too late and there were no kayaks available. So, I shifted gears to my second (favorite to hiking) activity – biking:) I did some research to locate a bike rental in Zürich so that I could bike along the lake’s edge. The entire lake is 56 miles – totally doable in a day with a good bike and a few hours. I did not have too much time and more importantly, I did not have a good bike. After visiting one bike shop – only to discover it was non-existent (Google error)- I found another and rented a Holland type touring bike (the only type of bike they rented out). I sit upright on a wide saddle with flat pedals and a basket in the back. I started the ride with my backpack on – trying to learn forward as I do on my bike, The Beast, only to quickly realize this was not going to work. I needed to embrace how the Swiss people ride: upright, relaxed and actually use the basket. So, I pulled over, put my backpack in the basket and imagined myself on a bike ride – for the experience – not for the heavy push and ride I am used to and much more comfortable doing. It took some adjusting – and I even willed myself to relax my shoulders and smile – though quickly upon seeing the lake up close I was lost in its beauty. I had no set plan as to how far I would bike, or to where – I just biked along the road with the lake on my left. It was easy to not get lost, following one road along the edge, I went. At times I was biking alongside the cars which – I felt nervous about doing given I had no helmet – that was probably the most unfamiliar feeling of the ride. Like leaving your house without pants on – I felt out of place and extremely aware of my surroundings given if felt unsafe to bike with a naked head. Luckily the cars in Europe are much more aware, and patient with bikers and give a wide berth when passing – danke! Along the lake were multiple jump-in in points where people drops their bags and dipped in the water. I took a few moments to stop and look – but mainly I just rode. I had the wind on my bike heading from the city and then naturally upon my return rode into the wind. I will admit – at one point a biker passed me, riding a road bike – and I powered up the gear and set my mark to beat him. After about 1/2 a kilometer, into the wind I left him in the dust. Oy, what a joyful feeling – little did he know I was racing him. All in all I biked 30 miles – and was glad to have seen more of the rural areas along the lake. After returning the bike I walked to the Zürich Google office to meet Obi – change and head to the airport. We arrived in Hamburg ontime and met my aunt and uncle – who after a few attempts (many restaurants close on Monday in Germany and it was late) – found us a delicious restaurant to eat at. After a hearty pasta meal we drove an hour home.

On Tuesday Obi and I spent the morning with my other uncle who lives next door, a stones throw (literally) and enjoyed a typically German breakfast with fresh rolls, and many spreads and cheese to enjoy. I should add that in the morning, it was raining and I took my mini waterproof hip bag, and ran early in the morning to the bakery to pick up some fresh bread. Fresh rolls in the morning with local honey and butter is such a treat! A far cry from my daily oats – but the best way to start a vacation day in Germany. Obi and I then played a very thrilling dutch game called Sjoelbak (Dutch shuffleboard) during which you slide wooden discs along a two meter board into skinny slots with either 1,2 3, or 4 points. As hard as my uncle and I tried – Obi won by a few points against my score and my uncle in 3rd place. We’ve been joking a lot about a re-match – which is scheduled for Friday morning before we head back to Hamburg for a visit with my God-mother (another aunt) and then a weekend with a dear friend and her family, who I worked with in South Africa.

This evening Obi and I went for a long walk with my aunt and uncle – to Fischerhude and back for a local pizza dinner. Tomorrow my other uncle is making his famous cheese fondue – this will be Obi’s first time eating it. Obi will spend one more day working and I will venture out on a bike to some surrounding towns.

Then
Now

Zurich, 2022 (Days 1,2)

Greetings from Zurich, Switzerland. Land of decadent chocolate, gripping mountains, alpine lakes and perfectly soft pretzels…can you tell what I have been indulging in? Obi and I flew Swiss Air on Friday night for an overnight flight from JFK to Zurich – gratefully despite the travel woes inflicting thousands of people around the world right now, our flight was smooth sailing and our luggage also arrived just as we walked up to the carousel. Leading up to the flight I had done a few hours of research on neck pillows – never having owned one I walked the line of being envious of those that looked so comfortable sleeping on the plane with a relaxed neck – while – simultaneously thinking that it’s an utterly unnecessary item to travel with when space is so limited. By the time we got through airport security (which was also pretty smooth and the crowds reminded me of pre-covid travel which felt good) – I was still questioning if I regretted not buying a neck pillow or if I ultimately made the right decision to not get one. I think Obi was ready to give it a try (and probably stop me from my conitual fretting) and, so, he bought each of us one – in the airport and Hudson News. And well, not to dwell too much more on this subject – having a neck pillow on an overnight flight really was so much better. It’s not perfect and it didn’t help me sleep – but at least when I leaned back and closed my eyes I was much more comfortable with, than without. So…yes, now I will be one of those people with their neck pillow sweetly tucked into its travel case hanging from my backpack bobbing along, ready for action on the next long flight. We made it to our hotel by early afternoon – and luckily the room was ready and so we settled in. I should add that after taking the train from the airport to the Zurich HB, we needed to ride a local tram to our hotel. I was just marveling at the efficiency of the train system and the clarity of signage when we realized we had got on a tram (#4) headed in the wrong direction. We hopped off and crossed the street to ride the same tram (#4) going back. The next one arrives and we board – only to see that once again, it was the wrong direction and indeed the first tram was actually correct. Too funny – so we get off again (back where we started) and wait for the same tram (#4), again. This time we go two stops and noticed it’s turned in a direction we don’t need and once again, had to get off. This time we look at the map to notice a new route and that we actually needed the #3 tram, not the #4. So, now, boarding our fourth tram in a four block radius, the #3 – we arrive at our hotel stop in about 10 minutes. That was a good laugh. After some quick rinses we denied ourselves the very essential sleep (we both desired) and ventured out to see the “old town” – and explore the city attractions. We picked up a local free city map – which is the ultimate tourist trade mark, and wandered. It was a wonderful outing, meandering along canals, scenic bridges, swaying weeping willows and taking in the stunning views of Zurichsee (lake). My instinctual chocolate radar guided us to a specialty shop and we picked out some truffles for dessert. We also found a shop outside one of Zurich’s famous churches, Grossmunster, that sold dried fruit and bought some candied Kumquats. They were sweet at first with a bitter tingle left to linger in your mouth. The church was a wonderful place for a moment of respite, my eyes were burning and so I sat in silence – with them closed- allowing the lids to rest. The deep red and orange stained glass windows were magical. We ate dinner at a Greek restaurant around the corner from our hotel – the salad was mostly traditional though it was served with a type of whipped feta instead of chunks. I think I feel asleep in about 30 seconds – and woke up 9 hours later:) Good as new, ready for our next adventure.

Sunday, was a great day. I wanted to visit the mountains and go exploring for a day – getting out from the city center was key. I conducted a lot of research at home into some towns accessible by trains and we decided to visit Linthal and ride the steepest outdoor tram to the Braunwald (a car-less ski resort) town. From Braunwald we decided to hike to the Oberblegsee. We left early enough in the morning with a mad dash to the main station to catch an 8:43 train. We had just enough time to grab two käse (cheese) pretzels (yes, I am using a lot of my German skills to communicate and get us around) for breakfast. Once we boarded the train we were in a swarm of hikers – and I was suddenly in my happy place. I knew we were headed to the right place – when literally every passenger in our car had hiking gears, boots, polls, packs, H2O hoses and functional sun hats. The women in our seat quad both confirmed we made a good choice in terms of our destination. The hike was a solid balance of incredibly alpine scenery – lush green grass, Swiss cows with ringing bells around their necks to be heard in the valley, jagged mountain cliffs up above, paragliders in the clouds, wild mountain flowers and a cool breeze. The trail took us just about an hour and half to a most beautiful fresh alpine lake. Yes, this lake is filled from the snow melt drifting down from the mountains. It’s perfectly clear and crisp. I stripped down to the essentials and jumped in. The lake drops quickly getting deep fast – but you hardly notice floating at the surface looking out to the scenery and allowing yourself to forget all your troubles. It was a perfect hike to a perfect location. While getting lost at sea, a raft of baby ducks paddled over for an inspection. I imagined they wanted to play. Obi challenged me to some rock skipping competitions to which I humbly lost (barley getting one skip in) – he was exceptional and getting the rock far out into the lake with many consecutive skips – well done Obi. It was hard to leave such a serene place but eventually needed to make a move and walk back into town. On the way we stopped at the alpine cafe and each got a cool drink to refresh ourselves and carried on. The sun was stronger on the return and we noticed patches of melting asphalt. Today’s adventure left me longing for more, so I’ve planned tomorrow’s activity, kayaking! Obi will be working at the Google office tomorrow, so I will rent a kayak from a local place we stumbled upon, to paddle out into the Zurich lake. I can’t wait. Tomorrow night we fly to Hamburg.

Neck pillows!
Tired eyes at the Zürichsee
Oberblegsee
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